I have a love/hate relationship with getting out of bed. I am not an early riser, and loathe the sound of alarm clocks waking me up every morning. Alpine starts are a bit different however, as the reason you are getting up is motivated by an activity you want to do, and hiking mountains will always justify an early start and spring me into action willingly and eagerly. Our objective for the day, the Seward Range in the High Peaks Region of the Adirondacks, almost always requires an early start. The range includes 4 High Peaks but on this day we were shooting for 3 that are along the same ridge: Mt Donaldson (4140ft), Mt Emmons (4040 ft) and Seward Mountain (4361ft). In term of Adirondack Peaks, the Seward Range is not home to the highest of the high peaks but always present a challenge due to the distance you have to travel, the ascent gained and the unmarked herd paths that connect the peaks. I have done this range twice before but never in the winter and was eager to see it in a new season. We stayed at Shaheen's motel in Tupper Lake the night before the hike and set the alarm for 5:30AM.

We were lucky to be able to drive into the summer trailhead parking lot on this day and the Subaru was able to drive through the snow on Corey's Road no problem. Parking at the winter lot adds an extra 10km to your hike day, one that we wanted to avoid. We arrived at the trailhead parking lot at and signed in at the register before dawn at 6:45AM. With the recent snowfall we were hoping to xc ski into the Caulkins Brook turn off but there still was too many open drainages and downed tree fall. A friend of mine had been in to do this range 2 days prior but there was little to no snow in the range. How conditions can change in a day! We left the trailhead with microspikes on our feet and snowshoes on our back and hammered down the trail. We noticed a plethora of deer tracks and scrapes in the snow and then out of the blue two deer ran by us. We got to the junction just as light started to peak over the ridge and we took a quick break to turn off our headlamps and take a sip of water. The next leg of the journey is hammering down the wider double track horsetrail to the Caulkins Brook cairn and turnoff. About a minute before the turn, another solo hiker caught up to us and mentioned that he had found one of Glenn's 'past-it's-prime' microspikes. Glenn looked down at his feet and realized he had lost one some time ago! The hiker had hung it up on a tree over a 10 minute walk back and we decided to leave it there and continue on. The solo hiker whizzed by us and headed up the herd path on his snowshoes. As the ascent begun, we switched to snowshoes for more traction. It was a good call, because the snow depths increased quickly as we ascended. From my memory, I knew that the Caulkins ascent was gradual but steady and was around 2000 feet gain. For the past couple years I had been using a Garmin Fenix 5S for gauging progress on ascents with it's altimeter but as soon as I started my ascent the altimeter stopped working. I later fixed this with a software update but at the time I somewhat enjoyed not knowing how much further I had to go. It was great to follow a broken path up Caulkins - there was no trace of my friend's group's tracks from 2 days ago. Only one quick snack and drink break on the way up and were were starting to see the views.   

​After our break, we headed back up to Mt Donaldson and then followed Joe's track over to Seward, including some steeper areas in which the snow depth increased dramatically feeling like every snowshoe step sunk further backwards instead of moving upwards. It didn't help that under most of this deep snow was a thick coating of ice, so several steps sunk backwards and then slid backwards even more. Seward is a few hundred feet higher than Donaldson and Emmons, and the snow depths were that much deeper making forward progress more energy intensive. We weren't expecting to see Joe again as he would descend off the far side of Seward to continue on to his fourth peak of the day Mt Seymour. About 5 minutes from the Seward summit, Joe popped out from the trees to say he had changed his mind and conditions were too slow today for him to try to hit all 4 peaks. He was backtracking on the ridge - something we were going to do too. We hit the Seward summit at 1:20PM and then turned around and followed our broken trail back to the junction at Donaldson at 2PM.

Here we walked down the Caulkins Brook trail crawling over and under several obstacles including down trees, open streams, and re-routes around some blowdown. The trail looked definitely better packed down than when we ascended and later we would find out a third group that had a late start was up on the ridge. When we finally reached the cairn, we took our snowshoes off and I returned to my microspikes to walk in the snow on the way out. Glenn was re-united with his missing microspike which was hanging on a tree and as we marched along to the junction daylight was fading. At the junction we donned our headlamps (at the same place we had taken them off earlier in the day) and walked out to the parking lot with one thought in mind: food and drink. We arrived at the parking lot at 5:15PM and signed out at the register, noticing that the there was a third group on the ridge. We then walked over to our car, noticing that the parking lot had been plowed!! Elated we knew the drive out in the dark wouldn't be hairy and we would be back at the hotel in no time. Then we saw it....the Thule ski box on on the top of my car was open with my keys in it! I guess in the darkness in the morning I had taken out our hiking poles and forgotten to close it and didn't notice at all that I hadn't locked it up!! The hiking community is such a trustworthy bunch and nothing was stolen or taken. What a mistake! And that wasn't the last one....Glenn had unknowingly left his red gloves on the roof of the car in the dark on the way out and on the way out we sped out of the parking lot and left them lying on the road! After returning from our trip, I posted a few photos on the Adirondack 4000 footers Facebook page about the trail conditions where a member of the third party had found the gloves and are mailing them to us! The hiking community is so amazing!

Another amazing hike in the High Peaks region of the Adirondacks. Up to 22/46 peaks for my Winter ADK 46er round!

Stats:
Date: January 2, 2020
Hike Distance: 24.96km
Time: 10. 5 hours
Ascent: 5500ft
Moving average: 3.2km/hr
Overall average: 2.3kmr/hr
.gpx file

The forecast for August 8th, 2019 wasn't optimal. After a full night of hard rain and thundershowers we opted against the possible ridge walks and slide hikes on our list. With rain in the forecast for the day, we chose a short hike up Cannon Mountain in the Franconia area of the White Mountains in New Hampshire.

Cannon Mountain stands at 4080' and is  known for it's ski hill and tramway. The summit has a viewing tower that I wasn't aware of when I started this hike and apparently has awesome views of the Franoconia area on a clear day.

We started late at 10:15 AM after changing our plan and attempting to wait out rain storms. We parked at the Lafayette Campground hiker parking (1900') and walked up through the campground following the signs to the Lonesome Lake Trailhead. Quickly after the hiking trail begins, it splits and we took the right hand option: Hi Cannon Trail. The 2.8 mile trail up begins with a severely eroded section that is covered in a small granules akin to kitty litter. The trail takes no time to become steep and remind you that if you wore too many layers you will want to take them off ASAP. 

The middle third of the trail is the most challenging. Boulders become larger and larger and require more hand and foot actions. The skies opened up on us here and before we knew it every foot hole became a deep puddle and water streamed down the steep slope. The final third of the trail opens up to more slab friction hiking which I will note is tricky when a river of water is flowing on top of them. At about 3500' the slabs apparently offer views of the Franconia ridge that we unfortunately weren't able to see on this day.  A mixture of sweat and rain entered my mouth and soon every square inch of my body was soaking wet.

By the time we reached the ridge, every flat spot had become enormous puddle and water started to squish out of my boots as it had flowed hard down my legs soaking my socks for the past hour. We dodged puddles despite having soaking wet feet and found two more junctions to head up to the tower at the summit. 

Upon arrival the summit tower is completely enormous and impossible to miss. We hadn't taken a single photo of the hike before this point because of the rain so we raced under the roof after the first set of stairs and pulled out the camera for some summit shots. There was no point going up to the top with this weather so we packed up and ran down the trail. Our bodies were chilled from being wet and not moving for a few minutes at the summit. About 20 minutes into our descent the rain slackened and the sun started to break through. 

The return trip down the Hi Cannon trail is nothing to shake a stick at. It's steep, slippery when wet, and requires focus and attention. We barely spoke and concentrated on our footing. I was hoping we would have some views on the way down but we didn't. A old well-used ladder takes you up and down a steep section and there was one slab section that could be consequential if you lost your footing as it seems like you might just go off the edge!

We finished the hike at 1:45 PM and definitely thought that even though it was the shortest hike we had done this trip, it was the toughest in terms of trail conditions. It reminded us of a 'normal' Adirondack hike. I may have to do this hike again in nicer weather...I am sure the views are worth it! 

Stats:
Elevation gain: 2309 feet
Distance: 8.5km
Time: 3 hours, 30 mins

Up to 67/115!

Mount Tecumseh is a ski hill peak in the Sandwich Range in the southern White Mountains. The formerly 4003' peak has been re-measured in 2019 to read 3997'. As a peakbagger looking at completing the NE 111 (115er) list, I bagged this peak on August 7th, 2019. There are rumours that this peak might be taken off the NH 48 list but I hope it stays on the NE 111 (115) list. Fingers crossed my hiking efforts count!

Today's plan was altered due to a strong forecast that was to include rain and severe thunderstorms.  We decided instead to head up Mount Tecumseh from the longer Mount Tecumseh trail from Tripoli Road. Today we started at 9:30 AM, expecting a shorter hike than yesterday. The 6.2 mile round trip hike would be a perfect day out.

The trail from the parking lots jumps over two small brooks and then heads straight up. The grade is consistent and unrelenting. As it was hours before thunderstorms, the humidity levels were peaking and then wind was non-existent. Sweat dripped off our chins and flowed out of all our pours and we put one step in front of the other on this trail. That combined with numerous cobwebs made for a sticky mess on my skin. The trail was a soft soil slope with rocky boulders throughout. The trail is dense with forest cover and offers little to no views to gauge your progress.

After a 1700' slog up we were at 3700' an hit our first peak. The trail then drops into a col and hits a final ascent to the summit proper. We hit the summit 1 hour and 45 minutes after leaving the parking lot and were very grateful to feel the breeze at the summit ledge. A family of 5 were also at the summit (had come up from the ski hill side) that were lovely to talk to. We were surprised that the daughter had forgotten her shoes and had hiked up barefoot! 

The summit has a brand new summit marker and some beautiful views of the Tripyramids and Osceolas. Some longer distance views were obscured by clouds on this day as the storm clouds were building in the sky. After a drink, snack and obligatory summit photo shoot, we turned around and made our way back to the car.

Stats:
Distance: 9.5km/6 miles
Elevation: 2592 feet
Time: 3.5 hours

The easiest way to get to the trailhead for Mt Carrigan is to drive on Sawyer River Road. This road is not open in the winter so it's best to check here to confirm it's still open. The 3.5km/2.2mile drive in on this gravel road was very easy in the fall of 2018. The road is narrow but smooth and good for any type of vehicle. The parking lot can hold about 20 cars and can get busy as it was on the day we chose to hike it: October 20th, 2018.

We arrived at the parking lot and as we were collecting our gear for the day I realized I couldn't find my hiking poles. After tearing the car apart, I used some creative visualization and realized I hadn't seen the poles since the end of our hike the day before. Hopping back in the car we drove 20 minutes back to Crawford Notch, expecting to find nothing in the parking lot from the day before. When we pulled in we found that some wonderful soul had stuck my poles in the grass beside the parking lot! We found them! I almost cried - these poles have been with me for thousands of miles on them. It's amazing how attached you can get to your gear! We quickly drove back to the Carrigan trailhead and begun our hike at 8:45AM.

Leaving the parking lot and for the next 4km (2.5miles), the trail ascends only 700ft. This fairly flat trail follows and crosses the Whiteface brook. During the fall season, the trail winds through deciduous forest which is a delight to walk through. On our hike day the wind was up and the skies opened up with a mixture of snow and rain. Our quick pace moved us around a few groups (one group had 16 people in it!) and found us spending most of the hike with no one around!

At the 2100ft mark, the slope angle begins to change and ascends at a steeper incline. For the next 2650ft the slope angle stays relatively the same and the trail makes a few switchbacks climbing gradually up the mountain. The skies dried up but the winds sounded fierce and we knew that the summit would require us to add a few layers to the one baselayer we were currently wearing. At 4400ft you arrive at the Signal Ridge - a flat exposed ridge with alpine scrub bordering each side of the trail. We layered up just before entering here and moved quickly through the wind and cloudy weather we found ourselves in. 

We scampered up the last few hundred feet to the summit and found it at 4757ft (I think the official height is 4700, but the firetower brings you to 4757!). We climbed the fire tower and took our summit photo with some fellow hikers celebrating a second NH round. Just below the fire tower we found a sheltered flat area that we used to fuel up and socialize. 

As we descended back to the ridge, the clouds broke apart and the sun came out. We got some views! Out came the camera and we snapped a few photos before descended down the trail again. Peeling off one layer at a time, we started with 5 layers at the summit and finished with one baselayer at the bottom. Taking one more lunch break at the brook crossing, we took in the fall colours and warm temps and enjoyed the natural surroundings. A short time later we were back at the parking lot - temperature in the parking lot was +14C as opposed to near freezing at the top with the windchill! Another great hike in the Whites! 

Hike Totals:
Distance: 10 miles or 16km
Time: 6 hours
Total Ascent: 4144ft
​.gpx track
Accommodations: Dry River Campground

After completing all of the Adirondack 46 peaks over 4000 feet, I am now hoping to complete the NorthEast 111 (115er) list including all of the 4000 footers in New Hampshire.On this trip,  I decided to tackle three summits in one day in Crawford Notch State Park: Mount Tom, Mount Field, and Mount Willey. 

​After a chilly night in a tent at the Dry River Campground, we woke up to find the temperatures still below freezing and a blanket of snow on the ground. Winter sleeping bags and down mats kept us warm overnight, but it always a bit difficult to leave the warm cocoon come daybreak. After a quick cup of warm coffee and a bowl of oatmeal, we drove off to the trailhead (look for the yellow building below) and begun our snowy trek up to our first summit of the day: Mt Tom.  We began our hike at 8:20AM with snow in the parking lot!

The Avalon trail begins ascending a gentle slope through a beautiful deciduous forest. We stayed right at the first two trail junctions continuing up a ravine in the shade. Continuing up to a col we found the spur trail for Tom's summit. An hour and 40 mins after we left the parking lot, we had ascended the 2100ft of trail and made it to summit #1 of the day. Tom's summit is treed and a rock cairn indicates the summit point. We enjoyed seeing a few small views of Mount Field and embraced the sun's rays as they reflected off the snow covered fir trees. After a couple of summit photos, we scampered down the trail passing a few groups still on their way up. Back at the junction with the Avalon trail, we turned right and 80yds later turned left to continue on the ridge trail up to Mt Field.

The ascent up the Willey Ridge Trail up to Mt Field is gradual. At this point there was about 2 inches of snow covering everything in sight, making for a very picturesque hike. I focused my footing onto untouched snow areas as the fluffy white stuff made for good grip. 1 hour after leaving the summit of Tom, we found ourselves on the summit of Field. A small lookout gave us a great view of the snow-capped Mount Washington, but our ooooooing and aweing were soon over after 2 Gray Jays started swooping in looking for a free snack. That reminded me that I hadn't eaten yet so I grabbed a snack and luckily was able to eat while keeping one eye on the feathery predator nearby. We took a few summit photos at the cairn and in the field (photo above)  and tried some timer shot fun poses that didn't work out but were a great way to keep warm!

The trail off the far side of Field was being hit by the sun and starting to get slushy and wet. We carefully placed our feet down a few steeper sections - there was a mixed bag of ice and slush - easy to slip on. After a 300 ft descent we continued on a fairly flattish trail before gradually increasing again up to the top of Willey. It took us 50 mins to get to this summit - another rock cairn in a treed forest summit. Here we took a good lunch break drinking and eating hot tea and home-baked goods. We decided to complete the loop by returning to Field amongst wet rock, slushy and iced trail. Back on the summit of Field, we turned right and descended a different trail back.

We descended a connector trail called the Avalon Trail from Mount Field's summit. This steep, shaded icy trail is a shortcut back to the parking lot.  On this trail I decided to don my microspikes. We passed multiple groups who were obviously not prepared for the winter-like conditions on the trail and who were moving very slowly unsure of their footing. I took the microspikes on and off a few times on this trail, but took them off for good once hitting the main Avalon Trail. The temperature from here on down continued to climb rapidly and once we hit the parking lot it was well above freezing and had no sign of snow like it had in the morning when we left. 3 more summits in the bag!

Time: 6 hours 15 mins
Ascent: 3782 feet
Distance: 15.3km or 9.5miles

Avery and West Peak are the tallest peaks on the Bigelow Mountain Ridge just outside of Stratton, Maine. These peaks are part of 2 popular hiking missions: The Appalachian Trail and the NorthEast 115er list. My goal is eventually summit all of the NE 115ers, a goal that will  take me decades to complete given the distance to travel to the areas to hike; especially the 14 peaks in Maine. As luck would have it my husband and I needed to travel through this part of the world to attend a wedding so we stopped to bag these two peaks en route. 

This trip did not get off to a good start however. Upon arrival at Cathedral Pines Campground in Eustis, Maine, we realized that after packing the car full of camping gear, hiking gear and wedding attire we had independently forgotten BOTH our sleeping bags. Seeing as though it was already dark and a thunderstorm was approaching, we hunkered down in our tent with multiple layers on along with towels and Gore-tex jackets thrown over top. We survived the cool July night albeit with much tossing and turning and general discomfort. This area of Maine is pretty sparse in terms of finding camping supplies but we did end up finding a store that we bought warm but short blankets for the rest of the trip.

After our chilly evening, we filled our bellies with hot porridge and coffee and set out for the Fire Warden's trail at 8:30AM. We found the trailhead at Stratton Brook Pond on our first try (other reports say it's difficult) and parked at the busy trailhead and set off towards the pond. This area is obviously a popular free camping area in the summer - we found many people sleeping in or beside their cars.

The Fire Warden's trail takes about 5miles/8km to ascend to the col on the ridge between the two peaks. It begins on a flat trail beside the ponds before turning into the forest for most of the remainder of the hike. The trail is marking with light blue blazes until the col where blazes turn white. The shade provided by the trees here is welcoming on a hot summer day. The trail ascends about 1000ft  before leveling off again further up. 1.6 miles in you reach the junction with the Horns Pond Trail and a trail register to sign-in for the day. 

​Continuing on a gradual up hill, you reach the Moose Falls campground complete with privy and a water spring. From this point on, the terrain significantly steepens.  For  about 600ft there is a section I will call 'The Staircase', where the trail follows steep rock stairs that is sure to get your heart pounding. Just when you're red in the face and covered in sweat you think "Are these stairs ever going to end?", the trail eases off a bit before hitting a Appalachian Trail camping area just before the junction on the ridge. Tent platforms and a caretaker's cabin can be found here. We thought we might see some AT hikers but instead the area was full of day hikers. It was only 11AM.

Once hitting the junction you can choose to take West Peak (0.3miles) or Avery (0.4miles) first. We chose to bear left to West Peak first. The mossy vegetation and well trod path lead up to a prominent rocky outcropping at the top of an obvious summit, complete with a summit cairn and sign. Beautiful views of Sugarloaf ski hill, the Crockers and Flagstaff Lake make this summit one to remember. It took us 3 hours from the Trailhead and 3000ft of climbing to get to this summit at 4145'. 

​After a quick snack, we descended back down to the col and junction and continued on to Avery. After a few scramble moves to get around the backside of Avery's first rock bump we continued on good trail to the actual summit. Here another summit cairn with sign will signify your accomplishment along with many views of the ridge. An old man-made brick square structure (supposedly an old fire tower base) can also be seen from Avery's summit. A plaque commemorating Myron H. Avery's efforts to extend the AT into Maine is also worth a read here.  We were lucky to hit this ridge on a sunny day - you can see for miles. Avery's summit is slightly less than West Peak's at 4088'. There is no advantage to do one over the other first in my opinion. 

Descending down the staircase and forested trail was fairly straight forward and before we knew it we were back at the ponds and out to our car. The totals for the day were:

Date: July 29th, 2018
Distance: 9.72 miles/15.65km
Ascent: 3022ft
Time: 6.5 hours
Map: Rangeley Lakes Region Trail Map
.gpx track

Allen Mountain is one of the 46 peaks that stands higher than 4000 feet in New York State. Standing at 4347 feet, it is one of the Adirondacks most isolated mountains. As a mountain on infamous ADK 46er list, it is normally hiked by hikers pursuing the goal of ascending all the high peaks.

There are two normal approaches to summit this mountain and I have done both. The first is from the Flowed Lands camp spot (a 23km/14.3 mile hike with 4100')  which I first hiked back in 2012, or from the Upper Works road which we chose to do on this day March 31st, 2018.
​
Allen Mountain Stats from Upper Works Road:
Distance: 30km/18.6miles
Total Ascent: 4062 feet
Time: 10.5 hours (March 31st soft snow conditions)
.gpx file

Within a few minutes of leaving the parking lot you cross the Hudson River over a rickety metal bridge. Soon after, you will hit Jimmy Lake. Commonly crossed in the winter months as a shortcut, we decided on March 31st, 2018, that the water pooling on the top of the ice meant that we shouldn't chance it and take the 0.5km/0.3mile detour around the lake to get to the other side. Soon after you will pass the turnoff to the McAdam's Fire tower hike and then you travel on flat trail passing a few lakes on your right. At the 4km/2.5mile mark, you get your first glimpse of Allen when passing a small swamp. 

Marching along flat trail, one begins to handrail the Opalescent river on the right. Eventually you will come to a newly constructed bridge crossing (after the old bridge was destroyed by flooding in 2011). Crossing the bridge, you finally begin to gain your first bit of elevation for the day but only a couple hundred gradual feet. At the 8.5km/5.3mile mark you hit the turnoff junction to the herd path. This turn off is fairly obvious with signs pointing towards Allen (right) or Marcy (left). Only .5km/0.3miles later, you cross a gravel road and see a clearing turn right here and head towards a second register that signifies the beginning of the true herd path towards Allen. From here it is 6km/3.4miles to the summit. The trail immediately begins to rise and the terrain crosses a few small streams and brooks. The rolling terrain continues until reaching the Skylight brook. From here, the terrain consistently climbs heading upstream along Skylight brook. 

As your heart begins to beat rapidly, the sounds of the Skylight brook fade as the trail trends to the right. All of a sudden it hits you. The Allen brook drainage and the beginning of the steep slidepath. The terrain here rises steeply for about 1500' meandering in and out of forested areas and up and over downed trees. The trail trends on the right- hand side of the slide and in the winter climbs over snow and ice in the open areas. The icy areas may require the use of crampons and ice axes, so come prepared. In the summer, red algae can cover the exposed rock making passage slippery. Be warned!

Finally reaching the top of the slide, your body has now broken into a total sweat and you welcome the relief of entering the shady forest trees once again. Thinking the summit may be near, the final 500ft of climbing is very steep and will make anyone's heart pound hard. You know you are near the end when the terrain finally flattens out for a moment before making a final short rise one last time to reach the summit proper. Both times I have been on Allen there has been a summit sign and a protected treed area to enjoy a well deserved break. Today we had a special reason to celebrate summit success on Allen: My husband Glenn's 46th summit finish! He is now a ADK 46er!

No time to linger on this hike... another 15km/9.3miles await you on your descent and way out. The steep slide section requires attention and precise footing as does the brook crossings in early spring. Soft snow requires the use of snowshoes and skis could be uses for the first leg to the Opalescent bridge and back if conditions allowed. By the time you return to your car you will have known you have completed another good day out in the Adirondacks! Allen is the most isolated peak in the Adirondacks and can't be combined with any other peaks. The challenge is the long approach combined with a steep ascent making for a long-ish day depending on what time of year you chose to tackle it. Good luck!

Nepal had been on my bucketlist for over a decade before I finally booked a trekking trip in 2016. The Himalayas are the highest mountain range in the world and Nepal has most of the highest peaks. After months of consulting with friends and doing countless hours of independent research, I chose to employ Nepal Vision Treks for my trekking group of 6. We signed up to do the 21 day Everest 3 Passes Trek, but had to change our itinerary due to conditions and illness. This Nepali based company either met or exceeded my expectations and I would highly recommend them. For tips on travelling in Everest Region read my blog here. Here's how our trip unfolded from October 11th to 31st, 2016.

Day 1: Arrival Day
We arrived in Kathmandu after approximately 28 hours of travelling and crossing 10 time zones. We were greeted at the airport by a driver for the company and taken to our 4 star hotel named the Apsara Boutique Hotel. The hotel offered climate controlled rooms with modern bathrooms, free wi-fi, and continental breakfast. Just outside the main doors is a courtyard with a restaurant offering lunch and dinner options. We met with the company liason Chet who welcomed and greeted us and sat down to chat about plans and Nepal customs on tipping, etc.

Day 2: Kathmandu City Tour and Welcome Dinner
Our group of 6 was picked up by a van driver and city guide. We were taken to 3 sites in Kathmandu: Monkey Temple, Boudhanath Stupa, and a Cremation site.  Each site offered insight into the Hindu and Buddhist religious sites and a window into the tolerance or harmony found between these two beliefs. The city guide was a wealth of information on Nepalese customs and was proud to show off his city to us.
That evening were taken for a 'Welcome Dinner' with our trekking guide. This included Nepali dancing and band playing, as well as a typical Nepali dinner. A great way to start the trip!

Day 3: Fly to Lukla (2810m) , Walk to Phakding (2610m)
Up early to head to the airport, we were able to leave items for storage at the hotel for free. Ensuring our bags (daypack plus duffel) were no more than 15kg, we arrived to the airport and head through security and checked in our bags. Headed to Lukla on Sita Air, on a Dornier 14 seater plane. Temperatures were around 20C, we trekked from Lukla mainly downhill to Phakding. Encountering porters and mules for first time, we had our first glimpses of life in the Khumbu. Our first tea house 'Hotel Beer Garden' offered 2 single beds in a room (wood bed frame with a foam mattress 6-8") with an attached bathroom.

​Day 10: Lobuche (4910m) to Everest Base Camp (5365m) to Gorek Shep (5180m)
Woke up early today and was on the trail by 7am. The long line of hundreds of trekkers was overwhelming. We were bundled up with more layers and mitts heading to Gorek Shep. The trail here starts off flat and then rolls up and down 4 times over glacial till. Arrived at Gorek Shep at 10:30am, and got our bags into our rooms. After eating lunch, we left at noon to basecamp. Taking 2.5 hours to get there and 1.5 to return, we hiked over some rolling terrain up onto a ridge and then down onto the glacier. Some of our group members had some AMS symptoms: insomnia, nausea, vomiting, headache, disorientation, and cough.  Heading to basecamp, you are surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains: Pumori, Nuptse, and Everest. This day, as with everyday of our trek, was sunny with blue skies. We took the mandatory photos at basecamp, drank in the views, and turned around and returned to Gorek Shep. At these altitudes, our pace is as slow as a crawl, and we are having to push our bodies to do anything. We stayed at the Yeti Hotel.

Day 11: Kala Pattar (5545m) to Dzongla (4830m) 
Woke up at 4:45am to be ready for our 5am departure for our hike up Kala Pattar. We started in the dark, but soon after the sun rose and our headlamps were no longer needed. Out of our group of 6, only 3 made it to the top. One thing that most people underestimate about trekking is that you move so slowly so you have to wear more layers. It sounds ludicrous to wear a big down puffy jacket at -2C, but when you walk like a 90 year old you need it. After a late 8:30am breakfast, we returned to Lobuche for lunch, and then continued on a stunning trail to Dzongla in the afternoon, arriving at 4:30pm. We stayed at the Green Valley tea house which had a fantastic food.

​Day 12: Dzongla (4830) Rest Day
Today, instead of getting up at 5am to do the Cho-La pass, took an unscheduled rest day. And this time I mean a REAL rest day. Our group members for the most part had picked up a cold virus, and that combined with the effects of altitude was draining our energies. It was amazing how good 4830m felt after being at 5180m at Gorek Shep. Our guide accepted our group decision and planned accordingly. Thankfully the rest day was warm and sunny and we were able to sit outside and read. The food at this teahouse was also very good, so that was a bonus for staying an extra night. Thankfully the rest day helped store some much needed energy for our 12 hour Day 13.

Day 13: Dzongla (4830m) via Chola Pass (5420m) to Gokyo (4800m)
The alarm went off at 4AM and we were eating breakfast by 4:30 and on the trail by 5AM. For 3.5 hours, we ascended both rock, snow and ice to reach the 5420m Cho-la pass. This ascent was my favourite hiking section of the entire trip and I'm grateful we were able to summon the strength to do it. Descending the steep loose rock on the other side, we ascended 100m before a long valley descent down to Thangnak. We stopped for lunch there 6.5 hours after we started. At this our colds were draining us we were all coughing and blowing incessantly-there was never complete silence as someone was always coughing. We wolfed down some much needed calories and then headed out for the final 2 hour hike across a glacier to Gokyo. We stayed at the Gokyo Resort at 4800m.

Day 14: Gokyo Rest Day (4800m) and Gokyo Ri (5360m)
Today our group was suffering. Our colds had sunk into our chests and we were all exhausted. Only one of our group members was healthy enough to attempt Gokyo Ri. He went up to the summit with our assistant guide. 4 of our group members walked around town for the rest day where as the 6th member stayed in bed. We all had naps, and visited the very yummy Gokyo Bakery. The beauty of the Gokyo lakes is outstanding. A beautiful setting indeed. Our group made a decision that instead of going over our planned Renjo-la pass back to Namche, we would head directly south via Dole back to Namche. Again our guide was flexible and accommodating with our change of plans.

​Day 15: Gokyo (4800m) to Dole (4200m)
Today our 'Coughing Canadians' group descended down a beautiful valley to Dole. We passed by Gokyo lakes 1 and 2, and passed through a few villages before our final destination. At first our group was disappointed that we didn't go up the Renjo-la pass, but we quickly reversed our thoughts with this spectacular valley. In Dole, we stayed at the Lakeside tea house. Temperatures dropped below zero overnight and we woke up being able to see our breath in our rooms. 

Day 16: Dole (4200m) to Namche (3440m)
Today our group's energy was low. Although the trail today started off descending, we had a 1.5 hour hike up before lunch. The ups at this altitude should be easy for us at this point, but because we all had terrible cold viruses, it was difficult. At the top of the climb, we all coughed for 10 minutes straight. Luckily the trail for the rest of the day was mainly downhill. We returned to 'The Nest' at Namche and enjoyed a hot shower.

Day 17: Namche (3440m) to Phakding (2610m)
Re-tracing our steps down from Namche, we crossed the 5 suspension bridges and struggled with the slight undulations upward along the trail because of our cold viruses. We had forgotten how busy this corridor is: many porters, mule trains, and trekkers coming and going. Sharing the narrow trails is always challenging with the constant traffic.

Day 18: Phakding (2610m) to Lukla (2840)
An easy 3 hour hike up to Lukla, we were in a state of melancholy that our trip was coming to an end. Re-tracing your steps back to our starting point arrived for lunchtime in our tea house 'The Nest at Lukla'. We spent the afternoon shopping in Lukla and preparing tips for our trekking staff. The porters and assistant guide stay in Lukla to begin another trek and do not return to Kathmandu with the group. The only exception is the head guide. We celebrated that evening and said our goodbyes.

Day 19: Lukla to Kathmandu
Mornings in Lukla are a buzz of air traffic activity. Helicopters and planes are arriving and departing every 5 minutes. At the airport, we found a weigh scale and decided to weigh ourselves. Most group members lost between 2-5kg of weight, mainly muscle atrophy. We waited in the Lukla airport for about an hour, and then as soon as our plan arrived jumped on it quickly. The turnaround time for flights is about 8 minutes. The 25min return flight was easy and we returned to our Apsara Boutique Hotel to enjoy lunch and a long hot shower. That evening, we had a 'Farewell Dinner' paid for by our trekking company. Our company liason joined us for dinner as well as our head guide and we debriefed our trip, giving him all positive feedback despite being sick and exhausted.

Day 20: Kathmandu
We spent the day today shopping in Thamel and enjoying the Diwali festival. One thing to look up before you go to Nepal that could add to your trip are the different festivals. We enjoyed this cultural celebration that included street dancing, mandalas, marigold flower garlands, and parades. Shopping in Thamel can require full attention as cars, motorcycles, and pedestrians all use the same narrow lanes. Masks or buffs can be an asset to those people sensitive to air pollution, or to those who have lung disease or lung viruses. Shops include jewelry, scarves and blankets, knock-off and real outdoor gear, t-shirt and cultural clothing, a supermarket, and cultural souvenirs.

​Day 21: Fly home
Our company provided transport to the airport for our departure. After 21 days, I am very please with my choice of trekking company. They met or exceeded every expectation I had, and I would highly recommend them to anyone. Great job Nepal Vision Treks!

Looking back, despite some bad luck with illness, we got what we wanted out of our adventure: to plant our eyes on some of the tallest mountains in the world, test our physical capabilities at altitude, and to immerse ourselves in a new culture. Nepal is an amazing country to visit- the Nepali people are genuinely friendly, the scenery is stunning, and culture is amazing. A bucketlist dream fulfilled, and one that I am very grateful for.

A video on our trip is coming soon!
Check out my blog on Tips for Travelling in Nepal

The North Brother Mountain is located in Baxter State Park, Maine. Although in the shadow of it's more popular sibling Katahdin, the North Brother is worthwhile to to do for a few reasons. Firstly, at 4151ft, the North Brother is on the NorthEast 111 peakbagging list and for anyone interested in completing the 111 (115) peaks over 4000ft in New York, Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine.  Secondly, it's a great hike for those not interested in the crowds or steep scrambly elevation gain on Katahdin. This is a great hike for a beginner mountain hiker.

Before the hike, we camped at Katahdin Stream Campground. It is home to 12 lean-to's, 9 tentsites, and 3 group sites, and the nicest smelling and clean outhouses I have ever used. Reservations are strongly recommended. That said, this campground can be busy as it is also home for Appalachian Trail (AT) thru-hikers that will or have completed their 3500km journey at the summit of Katahdin. The first day we arrived we heard lots of cheering and hoots of joy as the finishers rolled in.  Meeting the ranger on the first night, she warned us of bear actitivity and encouraged us to put our food in our car. Of course we did, but I woke up to my food being attacked by mice overnight. They had got into the car! Be warned as I lost about half my food.

The drive to the Slide Dam parking lot from Katahdin Stream Campground took about 10 minutes. Elevation at the parking lot is almost 1200ft, so were were looking at a 3000ft ascent. Our plan was to ascend the North Brother via a loop over Mt Coe and the South Brother. Unfortunately it had rained significantly overnight and our group of three wasn't interested in climbing a wet slide and not seeing any views. Our mission was to summit the North Brother as one of our group members was completing her final peak of the NE 111(115) list. We chose to hike the Marston trail.

The trail can be characterized by going up 3 big steps. It starts on a flat dirt path and then gradually ascends about 1000ft before the first junction towards Mt Coe. After turning left, the trail flattens out again and travels alongside an Unnamed Pond with a short lookout. For us, it was the best lookout of the day as low-lying cloud hung over the summits. After hiking around the pond the trail heads up again another 1000ft and then flattens out once again in a wooded saddle. Here, there is a final trail junction to head over to South Brother. Turning left to North Brother, you meet the last part of the ascent. The final up is a mainly above the treeline and over some boulders to the summit itself. In a few areas, you will have to scramble (using hands and feet) to get up and down these sections. 

Our summit day was not a pretty one as there were no views above the treeline. Stuck in a cloud and in the rain we carefully placed each footstep on the slippery rocks and finally saw the summit marker itself. As our group member Deb reached the summit, Mike and I blew up balloons and opened up a big sign for Deb's big moment. Standing on your 115th peak must have felt incredible, and I hope to one day feel that same sense of accomplishment.

We returned down the same way we came and finished the hike in 5.5 hours. We ascended a total of 3193 ft and hiked 13.1km. We were back to the campground in time for a late lunch and warm up of soup and tea! 

Mount Katahdin is located in Baxter State Park in the State of Maine. It stands at 5267ft and has 2 prominent peaks: Hamlin and Baxter. Both of these tall eastern peaks are on the NorthEast 111(115) peakbagging list and so our hike was to summit both peaks via a loop on September 20th, 2016. Our Plan A was to ascend the Helon Taylor Trail followed by a traverse of the famous Knife Edge Ridge then summit Baxter Peak at 5267ft and then continue on a saddle over to Hamlin Peak at 4756ft and then down the Hamlin Ridge Trail. This route is the classic way to summit Katahdin as a day hike and we are all have a background in rock climbing with exposure and are comfortable in that environment. There are other ways to get to Katahdin's summit and you should pick the route that is right for you.

Our group of three tent camped at Roaring Brook Campground the night before the hike. This campground is home to 9 Lean-To's, 10 tent sites, and 10 bunkhouse beds. Reservations are strongly recommended. The campsite has clean outhouses and a small brook as a water source (better to bring water in). After waiting for a sunny weather window for 3 days, we woke up at 5am to the unexpected weather change of rain. In fact, it had rained hard all night and we woke up with our spirits dampened. Poor weather such as rain, wind, and low-lying clouds were NOT optimal conditions for hiking the famous Knife Edge Ridge. We had to make a Plan B.

We decided to try to loop in the opposite direction as planned, hoping that the weather forecast would hold true and that by the time we got up on the ridges we would be able to do the Knife Edge. Starting just behind the Ranger Cabin, we took the Chimney Pond Trail up to Basin Ponds. The trail is rocky but has been engineered well for drainage of water. I decided to take off my gaiters an hour into this hike. 

Heading onto the Hamlin Ridge trail, we started to gain elevation and quickly. Rocky boulders started appearing and the rock was wet from the overnight rains. As soon as we crossed the treeline, we entered into a cloud and began our scramble up some boulders. Reaching the Hamlin Peak summit marker 3 hours and 3600ft later, our bodies were dripping of sweat. The humidity levels were definitely high today.

​Donning our shell jackets, the cloud we were in was windy and drizzling water vapour on us. We descended down some slippery rock boulders onto some small ball bearing type rocks. These rocks if stepped on incorrectly will sit you down on your butt before you know it. Crossing the saddle, we lost approximately 400ft of elevation gain hiking through gravel paths and alpine scrub.

We continued on over to Baxter Peak, the highest point on Katahdin at 5267ft by ascending 900ft of rock steps to the summit. In some places red rock stones the size of a nalgene bottle create a path upwards and is easy to walk on. The grade of the ascent is manageable, especially after already ascending 3600ft. The summit sign on Baxter Peak of Mt Katahdin cannot be missed. It's a large sign and great for photos. Unfortunately today there were two compounding problems. One, we had no views being in a cloud, and two, there were about a dozen AT thru-hikers finishing their epic 3500km journeys with beer and wine to boot. AT hikers ascend the Hunt Trail from Katahdin Stream Campground. Luckily we were able to squeeze a quick summit pic in with our group amongst the crowds. At this point, we had hiked 10.5km and ascended over 4500ft. We sat down and had a lunch break beside a large rock cairn.

Looking over to where the Knife Edge is supposed to be, we saw nothing but cloud. One of our group members had done the ridge before and knew that under these less than ideal conditions, our goal of doing the Knife Edge Ridge was not meant to be on this day. Instead, we decided to descend the Cathedral Trail, a trail that descends right off Baxter Peak and connects with the Chimney Pond trail we started on to make a loop.