The Spanish River is a south flowing river that lies north west of Sudbury, Ontario. The river has a rich history that includes being a travel corridor for Ojibwe natives, fur traders and in the last century for logging. The river is protected in Spanish River Waterway park and is home to two channels (east and west) that converge into one about half way down the river at a junction called 'The Forks'. 

The West Branch is known as the more difficult one beginning at Biscotasi Lake. It can be accessed by VIA passenger train which you can hop on in Sudbury or Cartier, Ontario. To avoid a full day of flatwater paddling, we chose to start our trip at Sinker Creek and paddle through to Agnew Lake. You can also choose to take out at the the Elbow but I would recommend continuing down past as you would miss a great section of river. Train tickets can be purchased online through the VIA rail website.

Maps: Please purchase a Spanish River map before planning your trip through Chrismar Mapping.

Day 0: Home to Agnew Lake Lodge
After a 6 hour drive to Agnew Lake Lodge, we set up a camp at a campsite along the lake. Note that the lodge offers a grassy spot with picnic table for camping or small cabins for paddlers. For camping, amenities like tap water, garbage, a firepit and outhouses are the facilities.

The Agnew Lake Lodge offers shuttles for paddlers. Rates can be found here. We drove to the train station in Sudbury and the drivers drove our vehicles back to the Lodge for us. The Lodge also arranges camping permits for the river (~$10/night/adult). Fee information can be found here.

Day 1:Saturday July 13th, 2019 Agnew Lake Lodge to LeBell Rapids

Our group left the Agnew Lake Lodge at 6:50AM and drove about an hour to arrive at the Sudbury train station at 8:00AM. We unloaded our gear and boats and handed the keys to the drivers. One of our cars stayed at the train station  (make sure to pay for a parking pass). 
We had to pay $50 + tax cash for each canoe that got on the train. At 8:25 the train arrived and the loading began. There were 14 canoes being loaded on the day we left so you can imagine it takes some time. The train did leave exactly at 9:00AM, enjoying the air conditioned seats. 

The train passes through several small communities before the first views of the river. It's apparent that the train track follows the river for several kilometres passing through old logging communities that have now been converted to fishing cabins and hunt camps. We got off at our destination Sinker Creek at 11:20 which was about 20 minutes late after having to wait for a freight train to pass us on the tracks. Our group of 11 and 7 boats were unloaded, and we quickly ate lunch and started our paddle. 

Sinker creek meanders for about 1.5km. We had been told the river was running at a medium-high level and the members of our group who had paddled this river before agreed that it was higher than normal. The first rapid we came too had to be portaged. We hoped that this wasn't going to be the case for the entire river. The next two rapids (Hook and Tourville) were lovely class 2 rapids that empties into Lebell Lake. The Lebell rapid was runnable by the solo canoes in our group but not by the tandems. When scouting this rapid look closely at the very bottom as 3 of our light boats got temporarily stalled on rocks here.

We found our first campsite between the Lebell and Breadner rapids. This campsite is too small for a larger group but we made it work. The late spring and floodwaters of 2019 imposed a harsh July bug season full of vicious black flies, mosquitos, deerflies and horseflies. Good fishing (mainly bass) was found at the bottom of the LeBell rapids.

Day 2: Sunday July 14th, 2019 Lebell Rapids to  Pogomasing

Temperatures dropped into the single digits overnight and the morning hours were chilly. Not wanting to get out of our sleeping bags we lingered inside until 7AM despite some group members being up for an hour by that point. After a quick breakfast we were on the water at 9AM headed to the Breakner Rapids. We paddled the top half and then portaged around the mandatory falls section of this rapid. Below the Breakner falls is long scoutable rapid that our group chose to run with empty boats after portaging gear through.

After the rapids, the river eases off as it enters the Inch Worm section with it's windy twisting flows and high sand riverbanks. This is a great section to observe wildlife be it  beavers, otters, kingfishers, various ducks, and sandpipers. This slow moving section took us 1.5 hours to complete. We stopped at an island campsite at the Forks where the two river channels converge.

The river changes it's character at the Forks with many swifts and easy rapids. The train follows the river here and it is fun to paddle alongside a whistling freight train. The sun on this day was intense and the river offered little to no shade for any relief. Make sure to pack sun hats and sunscreen - many  of our group got sunburned. A  total of 27km for the day.

We made it just past the Pogomasing train drop off and camped at a large site on river left. This site had a brand new privy in July 2019. Only 150m from the train tracks, we were awokened a couple times to hear the trains roar through feeling more like we were in a city than on the side of a remote river. We were in the tent at 8:40 seeking refuge from the hoards of biting insects.

​Day 3: Monday July 15th Pogomasing to Zig Zag Rapids

The 4km section of river just below our campsite was super enjoyable with several swifts and and stellar scenery. The river was alive with singing birds and wildlife and if the river continued like this everyone would have had a smile on their face a mile wide. That said, the river mellowed temporarily through a flatwater section until it hit the very beautiful Cliff Rapids. Here a tall cliff on river left which towers over a few good-looking campsites below. We stopped here for a quick break before the real work began. We headed into a 8km flatwater section that unfortunately for us had a difficult headwind that lasted all day. This section was a slog and we got through it. The only highlight was the large Osprey that flew overhead of us. Just before Spanish lake and after we had paddled 22km, we stopped at a sandbar for lunch with the group. We had split into two pods at this point - the faster tandem boats and the slower solo boats. 

Crossing the Spanish Lake took some time despite hugging the shoreline. We were relieved finally when gravity took over again and we hit some current. We ran Zig Zag Rapids and found a home at the campsite along the portage there. For some reason (maybe the warm wind) the bugs weren't as bad here which made this site enjoyable. We had stopped after 26.5km day at 2PM. Our group split up onto two sites as tentspots were sparse on these sites.

Day 4: Tuesday July 16th Zig Zag to Graveyard Rapids

This short 11km half day of paddling started out with some fun small rapids and swifts. The river makes three sharp 90 degree bends nicknames the Knuckle, the Wrist and the Elbow. The Elbow is a popular take out for many who want to do a shortened version of the river. 

We continued down to the section known as the Graveyard Rapids. We paddled to top of the Little Graveyard rapid and took out just before the falls at the bottom. The portage was shortened to about 80m but was tricky as the rocky nature of this portage became slippery with some light rain.

We ran the next short rapid and then hit the Big Graveyard Rapid which we portaged on river left. A kayaker in our group ran it an swam, another solo canoer ran it and barely made it down at this water level.

The final rapid in this series is the Cascades which you can lift over on the rocks on river right. We chose this as our campspot for the night. This site is nice and open and has many rocky outcroppings with small pools good for swimming and fishing. The relaxing afternoon here was spent fishing, swimming and hiding in the shade. The heat of the day was absorbed into the rocks making them feel like an oven at some points forcing us to take multiple swims.

We found some unripe blueberries at this site and deeply hidden in one patch was a small ground nest from an unknown with 5 blue eggs in it. The anglers of the group caught pike and walleye at this site which made for good eating.

​Day 5: Wednesday July 17th Graveyard to Reynold's Creek Campsite

We headed off at 9AM with a Bald Eagle family (mother, father and young) riding the thermals overhead. Just downstream from the Graveyard rapids was Agnes rapid which is a technical rocky rapid that I would classify a 3-.  We successfully ran this one without scouting and might have been my favourite of the trip. Just downstream is a long class 2 rapid called the Cedar Rapids which was also very enjoyable.

Our plan for the day was to paddle out to Agnew Lake, following the 'conveyor belt' of current from Cedar Rapids out. Unfortunately my husband and canoeing partner came down with a bout of heat exhaustion when the sun started to heat up at 10:30AM (most likely dehydrated from the oven day the day before) that included vomiting and nausea making canoeing impossible. After a two hour stop in the shade of a riverbank we were able to move him 6km downriver (unable to paddle and motion sick). A group effort included wet towels and cloths, filtering fluids, first aid meds, gathering salty foods, and planning our evacuation strategy. We had to stop at the Reynold's creek campsite (sidenote: this is a beautiful spot) so that he could spend the afternoon recovering in the shade, drink, and eat salty foods.  He did feel much better around dinnertime and the group didn't mind staying at this beautiful site with Old Growth trees, a creek and virtually no bugs! This put us about 20km behind schedule for the day but we made up the time by getting on the water early the next day. As we were paddling in the middle of the 7 boats, the first 3 boats went on without knowing what was going on. The stopped for lunch and waited for us but in hindsight we figured out that with 3 InReach satellite communication devices on the trip we could have communicated between devices in this emergency. We set that up that evening in case that was to ever happen again. 

Day 6 Thursday July 18th Reynold's to Agnew Lake Lodge

Up at 6AM and on the water by 7:20AM we whipped through the conveyor belt for the first 10km. At around the 12km to go mark on the map the river breathes a sigh of relief an relaxes into a delta of islands and flatwater. Here we saw our first sign of civilization: a motorboat! Just at the end of the river a tall cliff is noticeable on river left. Here we saw a family of red tailed hawks on a ledge with young flapping and squawking loudly. The two campsites nearest the lake look good. The wind gods were on our side from this point onward and we crossed Agnew Lake quickly. Our 4 hour paddle covered 26km from the Reynold's campsite, landing us at the lodge at 11:30AM. 

We settled up with the lodge for all of our campsite, shuttle and permit fees and headed home. 

Post trip: The Spanish is an excellent canoe tripping river for the intermediate canoeist. It's easy accessibility, scenery, and manageable whitewater make this river an instant classic.

Looking for a short canoe trip in Algonquin south of Highway 60? Look no further than a spectacular trip from Smoke Lake to Rock Lake that our group of 6 did over 4 days in August 2018.

Day 1: Smoke Lake Access Point to Big Porcupine Lake
Upon arriving at the Smoke Lake Parking area, you actually need to cross over the highway to the Canoe Lake Permit Office to collect your camping and car permits before your trip. Park one car at the Rock Lake parking lot by running a shuttle with your second vehicle. The shuttle will take 50-60 minutes depending on traffic, construction, and wildlife-gawking tourists that stop in the middle of the road.

After the shuttle is set and you load your boats along the docks, head out on  Smoke Lake to the southern terminus. We paddled Smoke lake on a day without wind, and it took the better part of 1.5 hours to complete. We portaged the short uphill 240 meters into Ragged Lake. I would suggest here that if you have a long drive (over 4 hrs) to get to the park stay here for the night. Ragged has a plethora of campsites and they all look to be descent ones.

Continuing through Ragged we paddled into the swampy South Bay and to our next challenge: a heart-thumping uphill 590m portage into Big Porcupine Lake. Once this one has been completed head out of the bay into the breeze of the main part of the lake. Once we arrived we immediately looked for a campsite but this being August, the lake was almost completely full. Normally the extra paddle around looking for sites isn't such a big deal but with thunder and lightning approaching we were on a time crunch. We finally found our site at the last possible spot on the lake and quickly set up tents and tarps to prepare for the imminent rainstorm that of course didn't hit us!

Total travel time: 4 hours

​Day 2: Big Porcupine Lake to Kirkwood Lake

Booking later than I normally do for this trip my only option for night 2 was Kirkwood Lake. This would make today's journey a short 2 hour jaunt. Adult-only groups that want to push the pace could easily combine our Day 2 and Day 3 itineraries. As we were travelling with children and wanted a more relaxed pace we decided to try our Kirkwood.

To get there we had to portage an easy 200m from Big Porcupine to Bonnechere Lake. Bonnechere is home to a few charming campsites that would be great spots to camp on at some point. Paddling to the north end of Bonnechere, we took the right fork and found the 175m portage to Phipps Lake. What we found on the Phipps side of the portage is a creek that was too low to paddle. A portage extension through the grasses and wetland doubled the length of this portage until we could load and continue on. 

Phipps didn't look that inviting for camping and so we hopped over the 60 m portage to Kirkwood and found our campsite for the night on the island in the middle of the lake. What we didn't know is that this campsite had a name: Magic Island! We spent a beautiful afternoon there swimming a lap around the island, catching frogs and napping in hammocks. The magic ended however with a hard rainstorm over night that lasted a few hours. Luckily we all stayed dry but the rain sure tested out our gear.

​Day 3: Kirkwood Lake to Lake Louisa

The rain ended around 9:30AM and we set off in the boats around 10AM. The plan for the day was to tackle 3 portages and end up into the gorgeous Lake Louisa and score a good site for the night. Unfortunately the plan didn't quite unwind as we first thought.

The first portage of the day begins at the end of Kirkwood and carries on for an easy 715m, ending in Lawrence Lake. I was the first one to carry through here with a canoe on my head limiting my vision. I saw the lake and put down my canoe. What we couldn't see on the two maps we brought is this portage trail fork at the end: one trail leading to Pardee Lake and one leading to Lawrence. I had taken the wrong trail.

After paddling Pardee and realizing that we were not where we should be, we backtracked and did a 10m (more like 25m) hop over portage back into Lawrence Lake. We lost about 30mins with this mistake. One of maps was large-scale and the other small-scale and neither noted that there is a split trail.

Back on track on the boomerang shaped lake of Lawrence we quickly arrived at the 415m portage into Rod and Gun Lake. This portage in August of 2018 had a large tree down near the Lawrence Lake side on a hill. At the time it was difficult to get over the tree (the only option) with a canoe on (take my word for it) so make sure you have another set of helping hands nearby before attempting. Continuing uphill again, you reach the small lake and scoot across it to complete the last portage, the 515m to Lake Louisa. This 515m portage had two tree obstacles to overcome as of August 2018. 

Lake Louisa is one of Algonquin's gems. It is home to a number of excellent campspots and is a favourite lake of trout fishermen. This year we found an island site to call home for the night. With the breeze we dried out our wet gear and spent the afternoon swimming and playing bocce ball. Total travel time for the day was 3.5 hours.

Philip Edward Island is located in Georgian Bay, Ontario and is one of the world's largest freshwater islands. It's exposed granite, turquoise water, and and thousands of small islands make this a bucket list destination for any sea kayaker.  Our trip in July 16-19th, 2018 included a circumnavigation of the island, a multi-day route including over 50km of paddling.

Pre-trip:

Before the trip started we needed to collect a few essential items that include:
- The Adventure Map for Philip Edward Island, along with a map case, GPS, and compass
- Safety gear: SPOT device, paddle float, bilge pump, throw bag, whistle, PFD
- Sea kayak, paddle, and sprayskirt
- Camp gear: tent, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, tarp, camp chair
- Personal gear: clothes, toiletries, meds, hats, rain gear, camp shoes, boat shoes, sunscreen, bug spray, headlamp, and several small 10L stuff sacks
- Kitchen gear: stove, fuel, lighter, pots, bowls, mugs, cutlery, spatula, knife, dish soap and scrubbie, garbage bag, and food
- Toilet bag which includes: trowel, brown paper bags, toilet paper, hand sanitizer
- Camera, GoPro, etc.

Day 1: Chikanishing to Jaws Island

Our group decided to use the Chikanishing access point located 2km from the Killarney Park Office. Make sure to stop at the park office to pick up a parking permit for the duration of your stay. The cost is around $15/day per car.

After driving for most of the day, we arrived at the parking lot to find a excellent drop off and staging area. After unloading our gear and parking our cars, we spent some time figuring out the puzzle of how to most efficiently pack the boats and make use of the space. After everything fit we were ready to head down the 500m creek to the big waters of Georgian Bay. We had been given a heads up by another paddler returning from trip that the winds were up and the swells were growing. At the terminus of Chikanishing creek, we could hear the waves crashing into the rocky shoreline and feel the wind's strength increase. I'm sure we were wondering what we had gotten ourselves into. Our group of 4 were all experienced whitewater and flatwater paddlers, but had never done a sea kayak trip before. When we turned the corner and got a glimpse of the big water, the swells were over 2 feet high. Our mission, if we chose to accept it was to make the 700m crossing over to the Philip Edward Island (PEI). We accepted the mission and began to cross directly over. Alternatively, some groups paddle downwind to Crossing Island, and then continue over to the north shore of PEI, while others turn around and wait out the wind if it's too unsafe.  As we began to paddle into the open water I couldn't help but feel nervous at first as the bow of my boat crashed down in the troughs of waves and my sprayskirt got blasted with water. It didn't take long however to realize that sea kayaks were made for this type of travel and they are both confidence-inspiring and stable even in rough water. Before we knew it we had reached South Point and turned the corner. We got to a small campsite on Jaws Island about an hour after we had set-off and set up camp and had a lovely evening watching the sun set behind the LaCloche mountains in the distance.

Day 2: Jaws Island to Hincks Island

Day 2 started with excitement and anticipation as we woke to find that the winds from the day before had dissipated and the sky was cloudless. After a quick breakfast we packed up (trying to remember how we had packed the boats the day before) we jumped in the boats and set off. It didn't take long to realize that after plotting our UTM coordinates from the GPS onto the map that travel in a sea kayak is FAST. We we averaging 5km/hr and by no means were we trying to break any speed records. 

The south shore of PEI is the real gem of the trip. Spending time exploring bays and various islands is really what this trip is all about. The setting is incredible and this is where you should plan to spend the most time. The Fox Islands are pretty incredible and are worth a visit. 

We had made our way to Hincks Island in just over 4 hours after leaving camp. In hindsight I wished we had done some more meandering and exploring but the thought of the wind changing direction and picking up was always in the back of our minds. Hincks island is home to several campsites so we claimed one and set up camp. We spent the rest of the afternoon swimming in the cool clear water, napping, and enjoying the view.

​
Day 3: Hincks Island to Collins Inlet

​Our third day on began entering Beaverstone Bay. The vibe of the trip switched as this area was a route for motorized craft moving up to the north channel. The clear blue water transitions to more traditional tannin stained tea coloured freshwater. Paddling in this bay is easy going and goes by quickly.

Turning left at the northeast point of the island we found ourselves in Collins Inlet; a narrow channel flanked with granite walls. The lodges around Collins Inlet weren't worth a stop so we continues on to Mill Lake where we stopped to have lunch.  We considered camping here for the night and explored this lake looking for campsite options. After an hour or so of paddling it was evident that this Lake was not used as a destination to camp. My advice would be to skip right over this area.

We continued down to the narrowest point of the channel and began looking for campsites. We found two side by side on the island, not on the map just before the second cabin property after Mill Lake. It's important to note that not all campsites are marked on the map and some of the better sites are the ones not marked. After a longer day we made camp and watched numerous motorized craft pass by, imagining what the fur traders life was like that used this route 400 years ago.

Day 4: Collins Inlet to Chikanishing

Day 4 was a short day including a 3 hour paddle along the rocky shores and paddling over the waves of boat wakes out back to the parking lot. We tried to find the pictographs supposedly along the rocks in this section but could not find them. Navigation is easy here as you have many marine markings to follow out to the western entrance. We felt a sense of accomplishment as we completed the circumnavigation of the island. A fantastic place to sea kayak!

Tips for Sea Kayaking PEI:
- Make sure your canoe or sea kayak has a good spray skirt
- Make sure you know how to take a GPS coordinate and plot it on a map before you go.
- Allow for 3 full days to circumnavigate
- Skip over Mill Lake
- Camping is sub-optimal : not much flat ground, tent sites often on exposed rock, often not small sites
- Majority of campsites do not have an outhouse or kybo. Campsite often had shallow ground to dig into so we implemented the poop bag: A trowel for digging a 6" hole, toilet paper and a brown bag to put the used TP in, and hand sanitizer to clean your hands afterwards. I often take 2 small sticks to create an "X" over the area I used to dig.  No one likes to see your used TP on the ground. Ever.
- Blueberry bushes were found on every campsite. 
- Massassauga Rattlesnakes are a poisonous snake found on PEI. We did not see one, but had our eyes peeled everywhere we walked.
- Tent stakes were not very useful. We had to use rocks to anchor our tent down most nights.
- Take breaks every 2 hours. We found that if we didn't our bodies really felt it. 
- If I were to return to this area, I would spend all my time on the south shore exploring the islands and bays there. 
- In July, mosquitoes came out in hoards at 9:30PM every evening. If you make sure you are in the tent by then and you can avoid the nuisance.
- Fishing - apparently supposed to be good, but our two guys came up unlucky.
- Consider a longsleeve high UV sun shirt as your upper body clothing. The UV is high!
- Bring your thickest or most comfortable sleeping pad
- Bring numerous small carabiners to clip things to the deck of your boat
- Be on the look-out for camp spots.  Not all the sites are marked on the map, and the ones on the map aren't necessarily always the best or most often used sites
- Hatches are theoretically supposed to be leak-proof but in rough water that flows over your bow or stern let in a small amount of water into both hatches
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Any lingering questions? Feel free to ask in the comments below!

The Welcome Lake loop in Ontario's Algonquin Provincial Park is a fantastic 40km flatwater canoe tripping loop. Reservations are recommended for this backcountry loop as campsites are numbered on many of the lakes. The trip is better done slowly in 4-5 days but could be done in 2-3 days if you want to push the pace. This loops involves a significant amount of portaging: 7.8km of the 40km loop is portaging. If you double back on portages like we had to on this trip, the distance jumps to a 55km loop! Loops also have advantages: no car shuttles!

The Rock Lake Access point is the starting point for this trip. It is located 8km south of Highway 60 around the 40km mark of the park (near the visitor's centre). Here, register at the park office along with the crowds of car campers. Our group included 4 adults and 2 children ages 6 and 8. We took 5 days and 4 nights to complete the loop and paddled it from July 28-Aug 2, 2017.

Day 1: Rock Lake Access to Penn Lake (10km or 3 hours)
After obtaining your park permits, drive down to the parking lot and load your boat in the small creek. We began our trip here around 1PM after driving to the park in the morning. Bear left on this creek to the main Rock Lake and enjoy the views for which the lake is named. Follow the right hand side of the lake into a small narrow at the south end and portage the 375m around a dam to Penn Lake. We paddled over half way down this lake and settled into our campsite for the night. Penn Lake offers several beach and rocky shored campsites along it's narrow shape. 

Day 2: Penn Lake to Welcome Lake (6-11km, or 4 hours)
Leaving Penn Lake we entered into a small creek before reaching our first portage of the day of 295m. This portage was an unexpected surprise for us as it included a couple sets of waterfalls and small rapids. Side trails from the portage take you to the waterfalls and other scenic viewpoints. Check them out!
Jumping back into the boats, continue through a creek paddling through some weak beaver dams and before you know it you are at the 2170m portage. This portage, although daunting in distance is fairly flat and wide. Two-way traffic can pass with ease and includes a 100m section along a dirt road! The only technical section was 3 steps on planks to get across a small creek. This portage was easier than I expected, and I did it twice! The ending of the portage brings you to the beautiful sand beaches of Welcome Lake. This circular lake is not large or deep, but is home to many amazing beach camping spots and sandy swimming shorelines! An Algonquin gem for sure.

Day 3: Welcome Lake to Lake Louisa (11km - 15km or 5.5 hours)
​Exiting Welcome Lake we passed through a creek that connected us with Harry Lake. A short paddle through Harry re-assured us that we made that right decision to stay on Welcome Lake the night before. There was only one campsite on Harry that looked decent for a buggy July stay. We continued through a second creek that connects to Rence Lake that included a large beaver dam obstacle astutely built across an old bridge foundation. After hauling over the dam and paddling a few minutes across Rence Lake, you paddle into a creek with a perfect canoe parking spot for unloading your boat at the 320m portage!

A short paddle through Frank and Florence Lakes will bring you to the long 1725m portage to Lake Louisa. This longer length portage has to be the easiest long portage in the park. This portage is very flat, very wide, and includes another short section on a dirt road. I don't think I have ever carried a canoe longer! Ending in the gorgeous Lake Louisa was the icing on the cake. We stayed on one of the islands in this lake and enjoyed awesome swimming off rocky shores, successful lake trout fishing, and an amazing campsite!

Day 4: Lake Louisa to Rock Lake (9km-15km or 4 hours)
The morning paddle down Lake Louisa was stunning. This lake is one of Algonquin's best kept secrets. Louisa has multiple amazing campsites, crystal clear lake waters, and picturesque landscapes. It took over an hour for us to paddle down the lake but we loved it all. What we didn't love is when it ended and the 2895m portage began. That said, what we found out was this this portage was ALL downhill or flat. Again, a long but easy portage in this direction only. I did have to double back on this one and the hills going the opposite direction would make this portage unenjoyable to say the least. Finishing the almost 9km of portaging (after doubling back) is definitely sweat producing, hunger inducing and completely satisfying. We paddled out to ever busy Rock Lake full of all sorts of traffic: Motorboats, sailboats, canoes, kayaks, and SUPS.  We chose an island site for the night and soaked in another amazing summer night in the park. Alternatively, you could paddle out the final 3km back to the parking lot and end your journey here.

Day 5: Rock Lake to Rock Lake Access (3km or 45mins)
We ended our trip on the morning of Day 5 and were in the parking lot by 10AM. 

After paddling in the park for more than 25 years, this was my first trip south of Highway 60 and I was pleasantly surprised by the great campsites, easy but long portages, and beautiful lakes. I will planning more south of 60 trips in the near future!

Have any questions? Leave a comment below or contact me via my contact page.

Killarney Provincial Park is one of Ontario's best protected wilderness backcountry areas. It is a 645 square kilometre wilderness is primarily used by canoe trippers and backpackers wanting to explore its rugged but beautiful landscapes. The famous Group of 7 artists frequented this area and are largely responsible for its protection. Exposed white quartzite outcroppings, blue coloured lakes, and pine shorelines are all part of the experience in Killarney. 

Below is my trip report from a 5 day flatwater canoe trip I did in August 2016 with 4 adults and 2 children (aged 5 and 7). We did a loop in the east side of the park that started in Bell Lake, and continued through Three Mile Lake, Balsam Lake, David Lake, Clearsilver Lake, and Johnnie Lake.

Day 1 (August 22): Bell Lake to Balsam Lake (2 hours)
Driving north off of Hwy 637 on the Bell Lake Road, be forewarned the next 9km will involve some rough driving on a mixture of gravel and pavement of various quality and smoothness. Arriving at Bell Lake, park in the main lot and take a quick walk on a path over to the permit office. For more information on backcountry fees, click here. If you need to rent a boat, Killarney Kanoes is right next door.

Putting in on Bell, paddle past the lodge and campsites through a narrow section into Three Mile Lake. Both of these lakes would be suitable for trippers with a long drive the day they start. After about 1.5 hours of paddling we reached our first challenge: a 30m portage! This portage is very interesting as there are two ways of doing it. The first is a normal mud path, the second is an old concrete path with railway type steel tracks. Either way the portage is extremely short and easy.

Balsam Lake is home to some very nice sites. The lake is long and narrow and most sites are private. We stayed on site #116, on an attached island, backing on to a bog with interesting flora and fauna.

Day 2 (August 23): Balsam Lake to David Lake (1 hr 40 mins)
Paddling toward the portage, we weaved through some islands to find the bay that held our portage trail. In Killarney portages are marked with a small palm-sized yellow plastic portage sign. The 665 meter portage starts with a steep hill before flattening out and finally trending downhill again to the lake. We found some other canoe trippers having difficulty with the hill here. As fit experienced canoe trippers, we had no issue with it. 

Paddling onto David, we knew that many visitors like to stay on this lake for 2 nights in order to do the hike up Silver Peak. That was our plan too, so we wanted to grab the first site we saw. We paddled out and saw that many sites were already taken. Note: We tried taking a shortcut around the island with sites #99 and #100 on it, but you can't. You have to paddle around it. We found home on site #102. 

Site #102 is on a rocky point, has great swimming, views, and loads of quartzite rock. The only downside is the the outhouse is a bit of a walk away from the main tentsite. The kids had loads of fun on this site building with the rock, checking out the wildlife (see snapping turtle photo below left) and great swimming.

Day 3 (August 24): Silver Peak Hike Day (5 hours)
A very popular day hike, Silver Peak brings you to the highest point of land at 539m. We began our hike day by paddling to the end of David, portaging a very short 200m portage and paddling about 25m to the beginning of the David-Clearsilver Lake portage. We left our canoes here and walked about 600m down the portage where an obvious junction got us onto the hiking trail. The next junction on the map looks like you need to go right, but in actual fact you keep walking straight. The trail is well marked being part of the LaCloche-Silhouette backpacking route. The trail is wide and flat until you get to the left turnoff to the Peak.

The junction to the peak is again obvious with a large downed tree and some log stools someone created and left behind. Once you turn left here there is a 300m (900ft) climb to the summit. Starting on a dirt path, the trail soon become rocky and rooty. Some scrambling (using hands and feet) may be required in some sections. If the rock is wet, it will be very slippery.

Passing over brooks, through rocky hallways, and up to the white quartzite summit. There are actually 3 summits lookouts. The one with the old firetower cement remnents is the best one for views. On a clear day you can see much of the park, Georgian Bay, and even the smoke stacks in Sudbury.

On our return an afternoon thunderstorm rolled in so we were glad we packed our raingear as well as our lunch and water for the day. We returned to our campsite on David for a second evening.

Day 4 (August 25): David Lake to Johnnie Lake  (2 hours)
The morning of Day 4 didn't start off so great as an overnight rain storm had left us with wet gear to pack up. We packed up and set off towards the end of David to a 200m portage, back in the boat for a 25m paddle, and out again to start the 980m portage. The first 600m of this portage is overgrown and full of puddles while the second half is flat and wide. Note the small right hand turn to go down to Clearsilver Lake. If you miss this turn you'll end up on Bell Lake!

Clearsilver Lake is gorgeous. The blue-green colour of the water is stunning. Short and sweet, this lake has only one campsite. I would definitely come back to it in the future. The second portage of the day was a flat 830m portage to Johnnie Lake. Portaging a canoe through this 830m can be tricky so pay attention to the trees (think slalom!). 

Johnnie Lake is beautiful. We canoed a short 10mins to site #65. We ate lunch here and set up camp. Having a few anglers in our group, they all had success on this lake. Swimming from this site is second to none, with a steep dropoff rock right on the site. The kids had great fun exploring around the site as well on some hiking trails.

Day 5 (August 26): Johnnie Lake to Bell Lake Parking Lot
Leaving site #65 on Johnnie Lake, we paddled through the winding narrow lake to a large beaver dam. Portaging on the left, we unloaded and loaded gear over what we think is the shortest portage we've ever done: 25m. 

A short 5 minute paddle after, there is a 300m portage landing you back in the parking lot where your journey began. After all was said and done, this was a fantastic trip for the beginner canoe tripper, family tripper with young children, or one that wants a relaxed itinerary. As this was my first experience in Killarney, it is one that I will remember fondly due to it's beautiful lakes, exposed quartzite rock, and LaCloche Mountains. I will surely return in the near future to either the same section or possibly a different part of this gem of a park.

The Wind River lies in the northern half of the Yukon Territory, Canada just south of the Arctic Circle. It is located in the beautiful Peel Watershed, a collection of 6 rivers that flow north into the Peel River and later into the Mackenzie River that flows into the Beaufort Sea. The Wind is probably the most popular river in the Peel region due to its beauty and friendly whitewater. To access the river, begin your trip in the city of Whitehorse at Up North Adventures to gather supplies like bear spray, canoe rentals, shuttles and fishing licenses. From Whitehorse, drive 410km (4.5 hour) north to Mayo to the Black Sheep Aviation floatplane base. Here you can camp on the base's property, or stay at a local hotel. We opted for the North Star hotel as our plane left in the early morning and we didn't want to bother packing tents and sleeping bags in the morning. Here is an account of our 284km journey from July 16-30, 2016. We had a group of six paddlers in 3 canoes: Kalin and Krista, Joel and Mia, and Glenn and myself. Our itinerary is fairly relaxed compared to the standard, but for a personal trip we were in no rush.

Day 1 (July 16): Mayo to Wind River 
We arrived and unloaded our gear at the floatplane base at 7:15AM. Everything going into the plane had to be weighed: canoes (which if strapped on the outside of the plane count as double), gear, and people. The load capacity for our Turbo Otter was 2300lbs. We had 6 people and 3 canoes so this plane was the perfect size. Our plane took off on time at 8 AM, and we flew over mountains and Beaver Creek enroute to our final destination of McClusky Lake. The weather was hot and sunny, with some haze. Total flying time was 45mins. Unloading the plane at the dock, we dumped our gear on shore and immediately noticed a hunting outfitter cabin. Everyone except me portaged our gear 300m to the McClusky Creek, while I re-assembled our 17ft canoe that had been nested with a 16ft canoe for the plane ride in. 

We loaded the canoes and at McClusky Creek and noticed that the water levels were low. This section of river is narrow, twisty and has many sweepers (downed trees).  We scouted and lined much of it. We ducked under leaning trees and slid our boats around numerous obstacles. Do not rush this section of river-you can get into trouble quickly. Luckily we made it out unscathed. Joining with the Wind River proper, we found a campsite on river left (GPS Latitude:64.58762 Longitude:-134.48970) and set up camp for the first night. The first thing you notice about the Wind is the crystal clear turquoise water, gravel bars, and beautiful mountain scenery.

Our first night went well: breaking in backcountry routines, jobs and figuring out how to use new gear! Unfortunately our sunny weather disappeared and a thunderstorm moved in. A sign of a change of weather for sure...

Day 2 (July 17): McClusky Creek Junction to Elf Cap Mountain
We left camp 1 at a leisurely time of 11AM. The river here is still fairly narrow, and is braided and twisty with many sweepers. After about an hour of travel the river relaxes and widens (picture below left). Enjoy the mountains in this section! Taking time to fish at our lunch break, the clouds rolled in and were ominous. We were on the lookout for 'Elf Cap' mountain (photo bottom right) and we camped on river left on a grassy bank below. GPS Latitude: 64.78242 Longitude:-134.64484. 

What time is it? A question that was always in play as daylight in this part of the world is almost 24 hours in length. I never once used my headlamp on this trip and it never got dark. There was never any pressure to get something done before dark. I never knew if it was 7PM or 10PM. Bring a watch so you know!

Day 3 (July 18): Elf Cap Mountain to Alluvial Plain
​On the water around 10:45AM, we paddled a winding section of river for 45 mins before running into our first sign of humans. A group of 6 (plus a dog) greeted us at their campsite on river right (photo below left). The group was on a 24 day trip that included many days of hiking. We left them and immediately parked our canoes on river left and hiked up to a small waterfall that can be seen from the river. A short 15 minute hike up and we were there. This was a nice warm-up as the weather today was cold and windy. After a quick snack, we paddled for another half hour or so before finding a sheltered area for a lunch break. We continued on, passing a solo rafter out on a 2.5 month trip. He was no where to be seen, probably opting to not get out of his tent on such a miserable day.

We arrived at the alluvial plain site, and found another large group camped at the first obvious campspot on river left. We continued on around the corner another 500m or so and pulled out at a second spot. The valley really opens up here and there are loads of camping spots in this area. We set up our tarp in a ravine, out of the wind. Our plan was to stay here two nights as hiking in this area is prime. GPS Latitude:64.88135 Longitude:-134.66612.   

Joel treated us to a special dessert this evening-apple pie in the dutch oven. Yum! Our group used a firebox to cook on during this trip. Fireboxes reduce impact from campfires and leave fewer fire scars. We also had a curious caribou visitor on the plain this night, who wasn't sure if we were friend or foe. Rain came down hard this evening and overnight.

Day 4 (July 19): Hike day up Portal Creek
The creek and valley behind our campsite is unnamed on our map, but we called it Portal Creek. The hike starts on the grassy plain into an obvious valley. Once in the valley, there are options to climb ridges or to continue contouring around at lower elevations. Low lying cloud obscured mountain tops so we decided to walk on game trails lower in the valley. We saw wildlife sign of bear, sheep, and ground squirrel but didn't see much actual wildlife probably due to the weather. A hard rainshower came down on us at lunch so we huddled under a small tarp for shelter. A 10km hike in total, we returned to camp with firewood to burn in blue sky and sunny conditions. Just after dinner and drying out our gear, the rain started again and we were all in our tents at 9PM. 

Day 5 (July 20): Alluvial Plain to Terrace Bay
​Woke up to cold, rain and wind. Temperature was 5 degrees celcius not including a considerable windchill. Rain was falling as snow on the mountaintops (middle photo below). We donned our drytops, drypants, and neoprene gloves and headed out in a gusty 40km/hr headwind down the river. We called this day 'Mordor Day' as it was like we were entering in a dark storm, like something out of a movie set.

We had to get out of the boat and jump around to regain lost circulation in the extremities. After playing "Hello, my name is Joe" and dancing around for 20 minutes we were ready to head back into the boats. The only thing that kept us going was a sliver of blue sky in the distance, exactly where we were going! We passed by a group camping on river right, and found a rocky ravine we dubbed the 'Solar Collector' to have lunch out of the wind. The sun came out briefly and we were able to feel the warm rays thaw our fingers and toes. As we hopped back into the boats, the wind came on full blast again and the sun hid behind the clouds. We paddled for 10 more minutes until we found a suitable campsite we called Terrace Bay on river right (the campsite had 3 distinct terrace levels). It was protected from the wind and rain and we set up camp quickly and got warm and dry. Sun came out later in the day and we hiked up the bluff to check out some hiking options for the next day. We spotted some Dall sheep on the hill, and we devoured the blueberries growing all around us. A short day on the river, only 25km. GPS Latitude:65.02667 Longitude:-134.86052. 

Day 6 (July 21): Hike day to Terrace Peak
A cold night overnight with temperatures below freezing. A full moon and frost greeted us in the morning. Leaving camp at 11AM, we hiked the bluff behind the tents through a bog to a alluvial gravel fan at the base of the mountains. Our body temperatures rose in the first hour of hiking and we all had to peel off multiple layers of clothing. Passing a large (bear?) den, we gained elevation on the ridge through grassy terrain. The grass and trees thinned and we found ourselves hiking on steep, loose scree. We heard some squeaking around us, and found a small pika alarmed at our presence. We headed up to the summit and drank in the gorgeous views of the river in both directions. Even though we had seen sheep nearby the evening before, there were no sign of them today. We carefully made our way down the loose scree from the summit to a grassy knoll for lunch. The scree rock is very abrasive and wouldn't have been ideal for sitting on. We continued our descent picking up some firewood. Hike gained 1720ft of elevation from camp and summitted just over 4000ft. It took us a comfortable 5 hours. Note: Terrace Peak is not an official name, but our name for the peak behind our campsite.

Day 7 (July 22): Terrace Bay to Mountain's End
​Woke up to raindrops on the tent fly once again and cold temps. As we packed up, I noticed a grizzly bear crossing the river about a kilometer upstream from our site. Joel had brought a spotting scope, so we monitored it's behaviour as it grazed on the far banks of the river as we packed up. Temps warmed up as the sun came out. We got on the water and immediately noticed that the river characteristics changed. Whitewater involved class 2 paddling and became more exciting. We stopped to check out another cute waterfall on river right, and then continued on a bit further to stop for lunch on a gravel bar. Paddled less than an hour further and gathered many photos and videos in the sunshine and turquoise water. Great scenery! Mount Royal is stunning. We arrived at the Mountain's End campsite on river right and caught up with another group also camped there. A glorious day enjoyed by all and a reprive from the cold and rain we have had so far. Another campsite resident also greeted us. A lone 'wild' Dall sheep we called Roger roamed around the campsites at will. Obviously not bothered by humans, he carefully but boldly wandered through our camp area grazing on the vegetation, allowing us to get great photos!
After dinner, 40+km/hr plus winds starting howling and our tarp looked more like a sail. We storm lashed our tent as the wind pushed the fabric and poles with purpose. A cold night ensued and I was glad I brought my down pants to wear as temperatures plummeted once again. GPS Latitude:65.11391 Longitude:-135.10718. 

Day 8 (July 23): Hike Day at Mountain's End
Today we woke up to a very cold and bitter day. The thermometer read +2 degrees celcius with a wind chill of -10C. We left for our hike at 11AM, and decided to gain the ridge behind camp despite the low lying cloud cover. Float planes flew low under the clouds all day and visibility was poor. We wanted to get to the spot that accomplished Yukon photographer Peter Mather took a famous photo of the the Wind River with the confluence of the Royal Creek with Royal Mountain in the background. Unfortunately, we knew there was no way we could re-create the photo, as Royal Mountain could not even be seen!

We climbed up 1500ft and watched a group of 5 canoes move down the river (photo bottom right). It was great to feel warm climbing the mountain and I dropped from 6 layers down to 3!  At 3700ft, our group split: 3 returned down to camp to fish and do laundry, while the other three (including me) continued on hiking a cirque ridge. We climbed another 600ft and found ourselves in the clouds with only sheep paths to see where we were going. Descended 600ft back under the clouds where we could once again see the river from the back of the valley. At a distinct green notch (@4:30pm), Mia and I decided to descend and hike the 1hr back to camp to start dinner. Joel, continued on the ridge for another couple of hours, and coincidentally showed up at camp just as dinner was being served. The wind continued
​to howl all day long we were all in our tents early at 8:15PM to warm up. Another night spent sleeping in in my down pants inside my sleeping bag and I was happy I brought them. It started to rain again when we got inside our tents and made us want to hibernate for the near future. Glad we brought some books to read! Temperature at bedtime was 4 degrees minus windchill.

Day 9 (July 24): Mountain's End to Little Wind
​Reluctant to get out of our warm cocoons, no one emerged from their tents until 9AM. Temperature was 4C minus windchill and the group conferenced to decide whether we should paddle on or stay put. We decided to paddle, and left at 12:30PM. Raining all morning, packing up was a chore. I wore a drytop with 4 layers underneath and toque along with my neoprene mitts with plastic bags overtop. The river changes at this point. Mountains end and the banks of the boreal forest take over. The current picks up and moves quickly (10km/hr). We covered 42 km to the confluence to the Little Wind River in about 5 hours which included 2 breaks and 1 lunch break. We saw a black bear on the banks today. It scurried out of sight soon after.

We set up camp  on a gravel bar on river right, just past the confluence with the Little Wind. We called this site Aven Haven (photo bottom left) and set up just before it started to rain again. If I were a weather forecaster, the forecast would read: "Cold and windy today with the threat of rain". That would sum up the past week of this trip. GPS Latitude:65.39588 
 Longitude:-135.42140 ​

iDay 10 (July 25): Little Wind to Mount Deception
Woke up once again to a cold 5 degrees celcius and rain. To lift our spirits, we had a pancake breakfast and noticed the other group we had been leap frogging coming down the river at us. They had taken a rest day yesterday and had miles to make up today. This group, called Youth of the Peel, had a interesting purpose to their trip which you can read more about here. It was already 10AM and they were on the water. Great to see a group of mainly native youth out enjoying this amazing area.

On the water around noon, I wore my raincoat and toque today with my drypants so I could keep on my 7 layers! We covered the 27km paddle with only one break. Saw a bald eagle on the river today. Low lying cloud, rain, no rain and wind hit us as we paddled. Luckily we made it to our next home at Mount Deception by lunchtime as the current remained to flow quickly. Crossed paths with the large group one last time as they left the site for lunch. We had our lunch soon after, and then set up camp. We noticed a few pieces of art left behind for us (photo below centre), using actual river rocks. High above Mount Deception, there were peregrine falcons calling, and also some mud swallow nests attached to the rock. Tomorrow, this mountain would be our hiking objective. GPS Latitude:65.59989 Longitude:-135.44432. 

Day 11(July 26): Hike Day Mount Deception
​SUN!! We woke up feeling the warmth and heat of the sun's rays for the first time ever on this trip. The sky had pockets of blue which eventually opened up to majority blue! The weather changed and so did the feel of this trip. Able to shift from 'endure' mode to 'enjoy' mode made everyone happy. 

We hiked up 1300ft right from camp to the top of Mount Deception. Ascending a series of ascending false summit bumps, the views are spectucular. We took a long leisurely bug-free lunch, and absorbed every bit of the sun's rays we could. We chose to come down the second and third ridges and had to bushwhack a bit back to camp. Returning the same way you came would avoid this. We returned to camp by 3PM, took time for a bath and dried out wet clothes and gear. After dinner, we ate shortbread out of the dutch oven, and played a competitive game of spoons. Group morale was on a major upswing!

Day 12 (July 27th): Mount Deception to Wind-Peel Confluence
After leaving Mount Deception, the river changes from clear and turquoise to brown and silty. The sound of the silty hitting your canoe sounds like you've dived into a bowl of Rice Krispies. Loud 'snap, crackle, and pop' sounds along with grains hitting the bottom of the canoe make no secret that the composition of the river is different. The river widens, is full of downed trees, and deposits of coal can be found along the shores. There are sandy berms along the river banks and the boreal forest continues to cover most of the landscape. We covered the 43.3km in record time with an average travelling speed of 13.4km/hr and a record high maximum speed of 18km/hr. I think all the rain we have had brought the river levels up. Before the confluence with the Peel River, some striking red-orange cliffs appear and then you enter into a canyon. We decided to camp in the canyon, about 200m before the confluence. GPS Latitude:65.83620 Longitude:-135.29584. 

Today the weather was about 25 degrees and sunny. It was so hot in the canyon, it felt like we were in an oven. We felt compelled to swim, and dipped our bodies into the river in a deep eddy. It felt great to immerse ourselves in water. Not too long after our dinner that included a chocolate fondu dessert, some clouds appeared and some spotty showers sprung. In the distance a rainbow emerged (photo bottom right).

Day 13 (July 28): Wind-Peel to Peel Canyon
Leaving the Wind, the river descends rapidly in a canyon and looks intimidating as it joins the Peel River. Luckily, when the Wind meets the Peel, the confluence is very gentle and it's an easy merge to paddle. The Peel starts off in a canyon that is wide and slow moving, and then the valley widens and the river flows around a series of islands. Along the way, we saw a smoking bluff made up of burning coal (photo bottom left). Smelling like magic marker, we vacated the area quickly and moved on to where the river narrows again in the Peel Canyon. There are 2 rapids, one at the beginning (a class 2+ that is easily missed on the right side) and in the middle (a class 2 with cross current left to right). The water level was low so these rapids weren't as challenging as they could be at high water. We decided to camp between these two rapids on a gravel bar on river right in the canyon. The sun baked us in the canyon and we hid from the shade under tents, tarps, and canoes.

The lower part of the Wind and Peel are really good for rock hounding. We spent hours looking for cool, unique rocks in which there are plenty. In grey, purple, green, ivory, maroon, and combinations, there are always cool rocks to find. I finally had to cull my collection because I had too many! By 8PM, we were back in our tents because a rainstorm had found us. It continued all night. GPS  Latitude:65.94937 Longitude:-134.8500. 

Day 14 (July 29): Peel Canyon to Aspen Grove
Woke up to pouring rain in the canyon. From 7AM-10:30AM we ate and packed up in the rain. Left the canyon site and front ferried across the second rapid in the canyon without issue. Enjoyed the rest of the canyon and the remainder of the day paddling around big river bends and large eroding cliffs. At several points, rockfall fell into the water from the cliffs so don't get too close!

On one of our breaks, we saw a black bear on the opposite side of the river than us. We noticed a bald eagle on shore, and its eaglet in a nest in a tree nearby. We also saw 'eyes' on the river banks staring at us (photo bottom right). We found a camp after 45.5km of paddling, 5hrs. The campsite was about 10km before Taco Bar, and we called it Aspen Grove. GPS ​Latitude:65.94665 Longitude:-134.34203.

Day 15 (July 30): Aspen Grove to Taco Bar
Once again, it was windy and rainy overnight. We woke up to find a moose cow and calf in trouble. They were on a gravel bar in the middle of the river trying to swim to the far side. They had spotted us, and had probably been pushed there by the wolves in the area (we saw tracks through our campsite). The pair tried to crossed the deep current, swimming with only their heads showing without luck. After 7 attempts and knowing the her calf was tiring, they returned to our side of the river upriver from us, thinking we were a threat. In between each attempt, the cow would look over at us, seeing if we had disappeared in the last 5 minutes (photos below). 

We floated the last 13.8km to Taco bar, our float plane pick-up spot. This spot (GPS Latitude:66.00300 Longitude:-134.21974), marked by a new big sign, is the pick-up spot for many of the Peel Region rivers just south of the Arctic Circle. We met a couple there with a pack canoe waiting for their pick up the next day. We ate lunch here, disassembled the 17ft canoe and got ourselves ready for pick-up. And guess what? It rained on us while we waited for pick-up! The flight back to Mayo was 2 hours in length.

I've learned not to underestimate the Wind River-constant current, many hazards, converging currents demand that you pay attention to it at all times. Whitewater experience is required. Being my first northern river trip, I am grateful to have had new experiences, new friends and new adventures. Even though we had challenging weather for almost the entire 15 days, the beauty of this place is absolutely stunning. I hope to return to this region again in the future and do more northern Canadian rivers. The Peel Watershed region's future is at risk at the moment. After visiting this stunning place I fully support the Protect the Peel conservation efforts. For more information check out their site and sign the pledge here.

What did I eat? Read about my menu planning here.
What gear did I bring? See my gear list here.
​Did I make a video? Yes- check out my basic GoPro edit video below. 

The Achray to Squirrel Rapids canoe trip is one of the best routes in Algonquin Park. Be warned that campsite reservations are recommended well in advance of your intended start date as this route is popular. This area of the park is jam packed with amazing natural features that everybody can enjoy. The trip is better if done slowly (4 days) but can also be done quickly (2 days) if time doesn't permit. The trip starts out with entering the park at the Sand Lake Gate after a drive on a gravel logging road. After registering at the gate, a few kilometers later you will come to the Squirrel Rapids take-out parking lot. Park your second vehicle here or hire a shuttle. Drive another 25km or so down to the Achray parking lot and launch on the shores of Grand lake.

Day 1: Grand/Stratton After a drive and shuttle set up, you will most likely not have much time to paddle into your site. Your choice is to camp on the large Grand lake or paddle over to a short 50m portage into Stratton. The choice is yours, and it may depend on your group size, and age. I have done this trip twice with kids 18 month to 4 years and for the sake of naps, we opted for Grand Lake. 

Day 2: Grand to Stratton Lake (2-3 hours)  Stratton lake offers some incredibly spacious campsites with rocky outcroppings and sandy beach sections. The lake itself is long and narrow, and is jam-packed with sites. Not all sites are picture perfect but if you get there early you will be granted some amazing camping. Swimming at Stratton Lake is not ideal as the lake is fairly shallow and muddy. Instead, a short paddle into a back bay and a 5minute hike will lead you to one of the gems of Algonquin Park: High Falls. High Falls is a natural waterslide perfect for sliding and swimming. It is a great spot to spend an afternoon or go for a quick evening dip. In addition to the slide itself, there is a circular whirlpool area that people can sit it and soak. 

Day 3: Stratton to Opalescent Lake (4 hours)   Heading out of Stratton, you hop over a small but rocky 75m portage to St Andrews Lake. Although I've never stayed at this lake, there are many beautiful sites with beaches making this lake attractive. Next up is 550m portage over to High Falls lake. This portage is fairly flat and straight forward until the steep hill descent at the end. High Falls lake is a shallow swampy lake with a few sites that are not recommended for camping with kids. Instead continue on to the next portage trail (make sure to take the trail to the right) 300m to a small swampy lake with many lily pads. Finally a 640m grunt portage that leads you into Opalescent lake. This lake is probably one of the most famous lakes in Algonquin Park for two campsites that boast couches and chairs around the fire pit made of rock. These two sites (one on the north shore and one on the south) are at the east end of the lake. If you score the one on the north in August, you will also be treated to hundreds of wild blueberries! Opalescent lake is a great lake for swimming and is clear and clean. As of 2013, there was a large windstorm that hit the park in this area blowing over many trees. The wind damage can be seen on this lake as trees have been uprooted.

Day 4: Opalescent to Squirrel Rapids (6 hours) Heading out of Opalescent take a rocky boulder hopping 750m portage over to Brigham Lake (close to an alternate access point) to a short, flat, 100m hop portage with a short paddle to 440m portage. This portage is downhill, and invites you to stop and look at a substantial waterfall halfway through. In 2013 many trees were blown over covering the portage trail but have been cut so that the trail is accessible. Be careful on the descent down to the water at the end of this portage as the trail narrows and drops off quickly on the right. Docking your boat at the end of this portage may require you to tie your boat up depending on the water levels as there is a current that will take your boat away if you're not careful.

The next paddling section of the trip is awe-inspiring. The Barron Canyon walls are simply outstanding scenery and will amaze any paddler. With light current you can float down the canyon without paddling and take many photos along the way. Look up to your left and you may see a hiker at a lookout point, and check out the cliffs both from the base and from across the river. Simply breathtaking.

Exiting the canyon, you will see many campsites on both shores and travel through a wildlife filled marsh before arriving at the final portage of the trip. We have stopped for lunch twice at the beginning of this 420m portage and had excellent luck fishing at this spot.  The last portage is straight forward and a short 15 minute paddle and you are at the Squirrel Rapids take-out. The take-out has a picnic table, gravel beach area and outhouse that is great for kids to hang-out/nap while waiting for the shuttle.

Alternative Routes for 1 or 2 night trips: If time was an issue and you were only travelling as adults there are two options that you could do in this area. First, you could paddle into Stratton Day 1 and visit High Falls, and on Day 2 exit near Brigham Lake or camp on the Barron River, exiting at Squirrel Rapids. A second option might be to put in at Brigham Lake, paddle through the canyon and camp, and take out at Squirrel Rapids. Finally if you couldn't set up a shuttle, you could put in at Squirrel Rapids, paddle up into the canyon, and backtrack out or paddle and camp at Stratton Lake and backtrack out.

A great trip for families!

Algonquin Provincial Park is located in central Ontario, Canada. It is a world renowned canoe tripping destination with many options for car camping and wilderness canoe tripping. I have been canoe tripping in this park now for 25 years, and it always holds a special place in my heart. The park is over 7000 square kilometers in size and has numerous options for short and long distance canoe routes. Reservations are recommended in advance and can be made here.

The Canoe Lake-Big Trout-Canoe Lake loop I will describe is one that I've completed over a dozen times. It is a classic route in the park and it is my number one choice for guiding my outdoor education classes. It can take a leisurely 5 days, or as short as 2.5 days. With my large groups I do the route in 3.5 days, and 3 nights as described below. The route has a great mix of small creeks, big lakes, and progressively hard portages.

The route starts at the Canoe Lake access point along highway 60. Highway 60 is the main highway that runs through the middle of the park. Cell service is accessible along the highway but a short 1 hour paddle off the highway and the cell service dies. Be prepared for backcountry camping beyond this point and make sure you have the adequate skills (canoeing, portaging, water purification, navigation, bear safety, wilderness first aid, etc) and knowledge before entering the wilderness area. Be sure to pick up your permits from the park office, rent any equipment items from the Portage store or Algonquin Outfitters, and use the flush toilet for the last time. Campsites in the backcountry have a limit of 9 people and have only a fire pit and a small pit toilet as facilities. 

Day 1-Canoe Lake to Burnt Island Lake (half day): Heading north along Canoe Lake, enjoy the old cottages and summer camps on the shores and islands. Stop at the Tom Thompson memorial on your way into the narrows at the north end of the lake. Veer right to the Joe Lake portage trail and portage the flat 250m trail around the dam. There is an outhouse along this trail if you need it. Paddle under the bridge hugging the right hand shore of Joe Lake moving through a narrow and into Little Joe Lake. On your right, you will see the Arowhon Pines Lodge, the setting for the movie Indian Summer, and the last man-made building you will see for days. The next short 165m portage you encounter is easily skipped in high water. Paddle through the creek to start the longest portage of the day 435m. A short paddle across Baby Joe lake and through a short final portage of the day 200m (make sure you go right at the fork!), and you'll be on Burnt Island lake. Depending on the weather and time of year, there are many sheltered campsites and wide open campsites along this lake. Listen to the loons as dusk hits.

Day 2- Burnt Island Lake to Big Trout Lake (7hrs): A nice warm-up paddle in the morning to finish the remaining length of Burnt Island Lake, and head to the 790m portage that traverses to Otterslide Lake. Getting out onto Little Otterslide Lake is always a relief, mainly from the heinous bugs that always seem to be hungry throughout the last portage. Paddle through Little Otterslide through a small creek that offers great wildlife watching to Otterslide Lake. I often stop for lunch at a campsite close to the Otterslide Creek portages to fill up water bottles and to fuel up for the challenge ahead. Otterslide Creek is a series of 5 portages along a narrow watercourse varying from 105m in length to 750m in length. This is a great test of portaging efficiency. There are many interesting features through this creek including wildlife sightings, beaver dams, and boardwalks to portage on. Once through the creek, you will be feeling low energy but a short paddle out to Big Trout lake will welcome you with a breeze and a plethora of fresh water to purify for your water bottles. I have my groups paddle over to the islands to choose a fitting campsite for the evening. Big Trout Lake is a great lake for swimming! 

Day 3-Big Trout Lake to McIntosh Lake (5 hrs): The morning's route through the remainder of Big Trout, White Trout Lake and Grassy bay will take hours. If windy it could take all day. As you pass through White Trout you will see a Ranger cabin on the shores. Paddling through Grassy bay is one of the highlights of the trip. This is the best opportunity to see the wildlife on the trip and hopefully it will not disappoint. My record is 6 moose in one trip through! Navigating through the creek can sometimes be tricky so for the most part if you take the widest, most well used path it works. Upon finishing the creek at the 745m portage, take a well earned break for lunch and re-fueling. The next portage is one of the toughest on the trip as there are 2 heart-pounding hills to carry your gear up. Paddle a short creek and then finish off the day with a 510m portage into McIntosh Lake. Look down as you paddle away from this portage. The bottom is often viewable 15m above at the surface. I like to camp at the southern most campsites closest to Ink lake. If the wind was in your favour, this day is relatively short!

Day 4- McIntosh lake to Canoe Lake (6.5hrs): Hopefully by now your packs are beginning to feel light as food has been consumed from the previous days. This will be a good thing leading into this morning's challege: a 2320m portage from Ink Lake to Tom Thomson Lake. The portage begins with a flight of stairs-I am not kidding! Portage your gear up the stairs to large flat landing area at the top. From here pace yourself through the 2320m, taking stops at the rest spots along the way. The portage is not overly difficult in terms of terrain, but it is long and heavy gear and multiple trips will weigh on you-no punn intended. It takes about a half hour to walk through the portage without stopping so with big groups I create strategies and challenges to get the equipment through the most efficient way possible. This portage can be buggy, and there has been bear activity witnessed in the past. After a photo-op with the portage sign at the end, hop into the boats once again and paddle through Tom Thomson to Little Doe Lake. Stop for lunch at a campsite and paddle on through Fawn Lake, Tepee, and Joe Lakes. You will recognize the bridge you canoed under a couple of days ago that will lead you back to the first portage of the trip. Backtrack through the portage and Canoe Lake and you have completed the loop. Celebrate with a treat from the restaurant or store at the access point!