Algonquin Provincial Park is located in central Ontario, Canada. It is a world renowned canoe tripping destination with many options for car camping and wilderness canoe tripping. I have been canoe tripping in this park now for 25 years, and it always holds a special place in my heart. The park is over 7000 square kilometers in size and has numerous options for short and long distance canoe routes. Reservations are recommended in advance and can be made here.
The Canoe Lake-Big Trout-Canoe Lake loop I will describe is one that I've completed over a dozen times. It is a classic route in the park and it is my number one choice for guiding my outdoor education classes. It can take a leisurely 5 days, or as short as 2.5 days. With my large groups I do the route in 3.5 days, and 3 nights as described below. The route has a great mix of small creeks, big lakes, and progressively hard portages.
The route starts at the Canoe Lake access point along highway 60. Highway 60 is the main highway that runs through the middle of the park. Cell service is accessible along the highway but a short 1 hour paddle off the highway and the cell service dies. Be prepared for backcountry camping beyond this point and make sure you have the adequate skills (canoeing, portaging, water purification, navigation, bear safety, wilderness first aid, etc) and knowledge before entering the wilderness area. Be sure to pick up your permits from the park office, rent any equipment items from the Portage store or Algonquin Outfitters, and use the flush toilet for the last time. Campsites in the backcountry have a limit of 9 people and have only a fire pit and a small pit toilet as facilities.
Day 1-Canoe Lake to Burnt Island Lake (half day): Heading north along Canoe Lake, enjoy the old cottages and summer camps on the shores and islands. Stop at the Tom Thompson memorial on your way into the narrows at the north end of the lake. Veer right to the Joe Lake portage trail and portage the flat 250m trail around the dam. There is an outhouse along this trail if you need it. Paddle under the bridge hugging the right hand shore of Joe Lake moving through a narrow and into Little Joe Lake. On your right, you will see the Arowhon Pines Lodge, the setting for the movie Indian Summer, and the last man-made building you will see for days. The next short 165m portage you encounter is easily skipped in high water. Paddle through the creek to start the longest portage of the day 435m. A short paddle across Baby Joe lake and through a short final portage of the day 200m (make sure you go right at the fork!), and you'll be on Burnt Island lake. Depending on the weather and time of year, there are many sheltered campsites and wide open campsites along this lake. Listen to the loons as dusk hits.
The Canoe Lake-Big Trout-Canoe Lake loop I will describe is one that I've completed over a dozen times. It is a classic route in the park and it is my number one choice for guiding my outdoor education classes. It can take a leisurely 5 days, or as short as 2.5 days. With my large groups I do the route in 3.5 days, and 3 nights as described below. The route has a great mix of small creeks, big lakes, and progressively hard portages.
The route starts at the Canoe Lake access point along highway 60. Highway 60 is the main highway that runs through the middle of the park. Cell service is accessible along the highway but a short 1 hour paddle off the highway and the cell service dies. Be prepared for backcountry camping beyond this point and make sure you have the adequate skills (canoeing, portaging, water purification, navigation, bear safety, wilderness first aid, etc) and knowledge before entering the wilderness area. Be sure to pick up your permits from the park office, rent any equipment items from the Portage store or Algonquin Outfitters, and use the flush toilet for the last time. Campsites in the backcountry have a limit of 9 people and have only a fire pit and a small pit toilet as facilities.
Day 1-Canoe Lake to Burnt Island Lake (half day): Heading north along Canoe Lake, enjoy the old cottages and summer camps on the shores and islands. Stop at the Tom Thompson memorial on your way into the narrows at the north end of the lake. Veer right to the Joe Lake portage trail and portage the flat 250m trail around the dam. There is an outhouse along this trail if you need it. Paddle under the bridge hugging the right hand shore of Joe Lake moving through a narrow and into Little Joe Lake. On your right, you will see the Arowhon Pines Lodge, the setting for the movie Indian Summer, and the last man-made building you will see for days. The next short 165m portage you encounter is easily skipped in high water. Paddle through the creek to start the longest portage of the day 435m. A short paddle across Baby Joe lake and through a short final portage of the day 200m (make sure you go right at the fork!), and you'll be on Burnt Island lake. Depending on the weather and time of year, there are many sheltered campsites and wide open campsites along this lake. Listen to the loons as dusk hits.
Sunset on Burnt Isle
Day 2- Burnt Island Lake to Big Trout Lake (7hrs): A nice warm-up paddle in the morning to finish the remaining length of Burnt Island Lake, and head to the 790m portage that traverses to Otterslide Lake. Getting out onto Little Otterslide Lake is always a relief, mainly from the heinous bugs that always seem to be hungry throughout the last portage. Paddle through Little Otterslide through a small creek that offers great wildlife watching to Otterslide Lake. I often stop for lunch at a campsite close to the Otterslide Creek portages to fill up water bottles and to fuel up for the challenge ahead. Otterslide Creek is a series of 5 portages along a narrow watercourse varying from 105m in length to 750m in length. This is a great test of portaging efficiency. There are many interesting features through this creek including wildlife sightings, beaver dams, and boardwalks to portage on. Once through the creek, you will be feeling low energy but a short paddle out to Big Trout lake will welcome you with a breeze and a plethora of fresh water to purify for your water bottles. I have my groups paddle over to the islands to choose a fitting campsite for the evening. Big Trout Lake is a great lake for swimming!
Day 3-Big Trout Lake to McIntosh Lake (5 hrs): The morning's route through the remainder of Big Trout, White Trout Lake and Grassy bay will take hours. If windy it could take all day. As you pass through White Trout you will see a Ranger cabin on the shores. Paddling through Grassy bay is one of the highlights of the trip. This is the best opportunity to see the wildlife on the trip and hopefully it will not disappoint. My record is 6 moose in one trip through! Navigating through the creek can sometimes be tricky so for the most part if you take the widest, most well used path it works. Upon finishing the creek at the 745m portage, take a well earned break for lunch and re-fueling. The next portage is one of the toughest on the trip as there are 2 heart-pounding hills to carry your gear up. Paddle a short creek and then finish off the day with a 510m portage into McIntosh Lake. Look down as you paddle away from this portage. The bottom is often viewable 15m above at the surface. I like to camp at the southern most campsites closest to Ink lake. If the wind was in your favour, this day is relatively short!
Day 4- McIntosh lake to Canoe Lake (6.5hrs): Hopefully by now your packs are beginning to feel light as food has been consumed from the previous days. This will be a good thing leading into this morning's challege: a 2320m portage from Ink Lake to Tom Thomson Lake. The portage begins with a flight of stairs-I am not kidding! Portage your gear up the stairs to large flat landing area at the top. From here pace yourself through the 2320m, taking stops at the rest spots along the way. The portage is not overly difficult in terms of terrain, but it is long and heavy gear and multiple trips will weigh on you-no punn intended. It takes about a half hour to walk through the portage without stopping so with big groups I create strategies and challenges to get the equipment through the most efficient way possible. This portage can be buggy, and there has been bear activity witnessed in the past. After a photo-op with the portage sign at the end, hop into the boats once again and paddle through Tom Thomson to Little Doe Lake. Stop for lunch at a campsite and paddle on through Fawn Lake, Tepee, and Joe Lakes. You will recognize the bridge you canoed under a couple of days ago that will lead you back to the first portage of the trip. Backtrack through the portage and Canoe Lake and you have completed the loop. Celebrate with a treat from the restaurant or store at the access point!
McIntosh Lake
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