For the past few years, I have taken up the sport of ice climbing. With these El Nino type winters, we can't rely on snow in the Ottawa Valley but we can rely on ice. Why not take up a sport that is guaranteed to be reliable, and only a 20 minute drive and 5 minute walk in from your house?!
Driving down Hwy 508, park at the parking pullout across from the Manitou Hiking Trailhead near the Calabogie Peaks ski hill. Walking in on the trail, if you want to access the bottom of the cliffs keep right at the junction. If you want to head to the top, head left at the junction and begin your ascent immediately. The cliffs are only a short 5-10 minute walk in. Please be mindful of safety around the top of ice cliffs and encourage others to do the same. A popular hiking trail follows the ridge and hikers frequently want to check out the ice climbers in action.
I will highlight the regular and most reliable ice on the main cliff. As ice formation varies from year to year, it is difficult to predict what the climbs will looks like each year and as the season progresses.
1) The first climb you'll see is Nameless One WI 3+, 15m. This short but steep climb is hard early season with a single pillar, but late season fills in with a vertical wall. This climb seems to always be dripping off on the left. This photo is from mid-season. It is reliably in every year.
Driving down Hwy 508, park at the parking pullout across from the Manitou Hiking Trailhead near the Calabogie Peaks ski hill. Walking in on the trail, if you want to access the bottom of the cliffs keep right at the junction. If you want to head to the top, head left at the junction and begin your ascent immediately. The cliffs are only a short 5-10 minute walk in. Please be mindful of safety around the top of ice cliffs and encourage others to do the same. A popular hiking trail follows the ridge and hikers frequently want to check out the ice climbers in action.
I will highlight the regular and most reliable ice on the main cliff. As ice formation varies from year to year, it is difficult to predict what the climbs will looks like each year and as the season progresses.
1) The first climb you'll see is Nameless One WI 3+, 15m. This short but steep climb is hard early season with a single pillar, but late season fills in with a vertical wall. This climb seems to always be dripping off on the left. This photo is from mid-season. It is reliably in every year.
2) The next area is called Green Fang and offers some of the longest vertical sections in the main cliff. This area can handle up to 3 top ropes and is generally considered a WI4. This photo is from mid-season 2015 and this ice is reliable.
3) The next climb to the right of the Green Fang is a large steep tongue that eases out towards the top. If ice falls off this climb, watch out as a belayer-all the ice funnels right to your stance! The ice here can be so steep at the bottom it can be almost oververtical. Watch for horizontal fracture lines on this climb on the most convex surface. This climb I call the Tongue and would rate it a WI3+. This photo is from late season 2016 and the ice is always in.
4) To the right of the Tongue in the photo above, is a gully that sometimes forms ice. You can see a thin vertical line of ice in the picture. In 2015 it was fully in but in 2016 (photo above) it wasn't. Watch out for the tree branch near the top! This climb can often be a mixed climb as well if conditions present themselves properly. As a pure ice climb like in 2015, it would be a WI3.
5) Next up is this late arriving section that has a variety of routes up. This section is a W3 18 metre high wall with some sections that could be a 3+. The 2016 photo below is from mid-season.
5) Next up is this late arriving section that has a variety of routes up. This section is a W3 18 metre high wall with some sections that could be a 3+. The 2016 photo below is from mid-season.
6) Immediately to the right of the wall, is the easiest climb on the cliff called Nameless Too. This WI2 18m is the most popular climb- suitable for beginners, first-time leaders, or a fun easy day. It's easily identified by blotchy rock wall on the right. It is one of the first lines to form in the early season. These 2 photos are from 2016.
7) There is some thin ice that reliably forms over the rock climb 'Flaky Flake'. It's more mixed terrain in my mind but if the area is busy it maybe the only place left! Easily identifiable with large horizontal cracks in the area and a big boulder at the base. Just to the left of climb #8.
8) Over the rock climb 'Cool but Concerned', is a climb called Unknown WI 4-, 15m. This climb is not always in, and offers different lines up the main right line or thin left line.
8) Over the rock climb 'Cool but Concerned', is a climb called Unknown WI 4-, 15m. This climb is not always in, and offers different lines up the main right line or thin left line.
9) To the right of the Unknown, is an interesting climb called Nautilus WI 3+ 15m. Normally this climb forms with a difficult starting pourover pillar, then narrows at the top through a slot to the top. Thin ice is often found at the top, as is water spray. This ice is always in and very reliable. Most people like to bring long pieces of anchor gear for the top of this one.
Nautilus 2016
Nautilus 2015
For more information on learning how to ice climb, contact the Alpine Club of Canada-Ottawa Section. They have beginner clinics frequently at different ice climbing areas in the Ottawa area. Please don't try this sport without the proper gear and safety instruction first!
I've had success climbing at Calabogie and then venturing on to other ice climbing destinations in the Ottawa Valley and Adirondacks as well as winter mountaineering objectives. Ice climbing is also a great way to stay in shape for rock climbing as well.
And finally, please be respectful of the environment. Please take your garbage home with you and dispose of human waste discreetly far away from the base of the climbs and off the main trails.
So there you have it! The main ice lines at my local ice spot: Calabogie. Stay tuned for another blog post on mixed climbs and more of my local training segments. Catch up with my Local Training Part 1: Ski Touring Training at Calabogie Peaks.
Please comment below if you have any questions. I would love to hear from you!
I've had success climbing at Calabogie and then venturing on to other ice climbing destinations in the Ottawa Valley and Adirondacks as well as winter mountaineering objectives. Ice climbing is also a great way to stay in shape for rock climbing as well.
And finally, please be respectful of the environment. Please take your garbage home with you and dispose of human waste discreetly far away from the base of the climbs and off the main trails.
So there you have it! The main ice lines at my local ice spot: Calabogie. Stay tuned for another blog post on mixed climbs and more of my local training segments. Catch up with my Local Training Part 1: Ski Touring Training at Calabogie Peaks.
Please comment below if you have any questions. I would love to hear from you!
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