1. The Escapist by Gabriel Filippi

Like a cat with nine lives, Gabriel's mountaineering career has been all about cheating death over and over. Each chapter recounts these stories but gives each story the full perspective not often included in mountaineering literature. Quebec-based Gabriel Filippi weaves the psychological impacts of leaving family, facing fear, and dealing with the aftermath of surviving tragedy that others didn't along with the mountaineering stories themselves. His openess and almost unbelievable stories is what made this among my favourite mountaineering books of all time.

2. Where the Mountain Casts Its Shadow: The Darkside of Extreme Adventure by Maria Coffey

Ever wonder what toll mountain adventure takes on spouses, siblings, parents and children? This book, written by Maria Coffey, spouse of mountaineer Joe Tasker, interviews many great climbers on what compels them to climb. It also investigates the impact of the families involved when mountaineers do not return home. I read this book over a decade ago and it still lingers with me as a fantastic read due to it's interesting perspective on mountain adventure.

3. The Calling: A Life Rocked by Mountains by Barry Blanchard

Canadian alpinist Barry Blanchard's book 'The Calling' describes a lifetime journey of alpine ascents mainly based out of the Canadian Rockies. I enjoyed this book for it's down to earth style writing, detailed accounts, and how it concluded with the greatest lesson of all learnt from the mountains. 

4. Mountain Rescue Doctor by Christopher Van Tilburg

An ER physician in the Mount Hood area, Dr Van Tillburg is part of a mountain rescue team called the Hood River Crag Rats. If you've ever wondered how rescue teams work and what sort of situations they encounter, this is an interesting collection of stories that is well-written and educational. What impacted me about this book is the countless hours of mainly volunteers who help rescue mountain adventurers at the drop of a hat.

5. Touching the Void by Joe Simpson

Joe Simpson is a British mountaineer that attempted the West Face of Siula Grande, Peru, in 1985. This near fatal story of him and his climbing partner Simon Yates sparked not only a documentary style video but huge controversy in the climbing community. If you enjoy this book, Joe has authored a few other books that are all good reads. 

6. Annapurna by Maurice Herzog

A classic must-read novel in mountaineering literature. Set back in 1950 Maurice and his team attempt a first ascent of Annapurna, now known as one of the most difficult of 8000+m peaks. The story has inspired generations of climbers and so it should- these pioneers made the impossible possible. A great read.

7. Mountains in My Heart: A Passion for Climbing by Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

Gerlinde is an Austrian mountaineer and the first woman on earth to climb all 14 of the world's 8000m peaks without the use of supplementary oxygen. Small in stature but possessing enormous drive, Gerlinde recounts the numerous attempts and summit successes she encountered in her journey to complete her goal.  

8. Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills by The Mountaineers

If you are a climber or aspiring climber, this instructional book has been the bible of mountaineering instruction for decades. It has been updated over the years with new additions as new technology, techniques, and equipment have emerged. A fantastic textbook resource for all.

9. Freedom Climbers by Bernadette McDonald

I always thought the Eastern European mountaineering community was tough, but it was confirmed when I read this book. Focused on Polish mountaineers who attempted many ascents during the Second World War, these guys were no stranger to sufferfests. I am a sucker for sufferfest books, and this one is a great one and gives some well-deserved attention to some under recognized mountaineering superstars.

10. Nanda Devi: The Tragic Expedition by John Roskelley

The 1976 Nanda Devi climbing expedition was lead by Willi Unsoeld, a legendary American mountaineer known for his successful first ascent of the West Ridge of Everest expedition in 1963. The story is about his daughter Nanda Unsoeld, named after the Nanda Devi the mountain, and their expedition to climb her namesake mountain. Told by John Roskelley, this critical account of mistakes and risk on this Indian mountain is a good one that shows how some expeditions can be disfunctional and result in tragedy.
 
Interested in more Mount Everest specific recommendations? Check out my list of of Top 10 Favourite Everest Books.

Have any books you'd recommend? I'd love to hear from you!

As the world prepares for the release of the latest Hollywood blockbuster film entitled "Everest" this week (September 2015), I reflected on the events of the 1996 disaster on which this film is based.  This one event has created more controversy and different perspectives than I thought possible. The 8 climbers that perished over May 10-11th, 1996 on a south side attempt at the mountain made many mistakes that we can all learn from.  I am not certain the Hollywood version of this story will be conveyed like the personal accounts described in books so here are my Top 10 Everest books as recommended by an avid reader of Everest survival stories:

1. Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer. If you must read one off this list, you might as well read this one. It is the most well known, and possibly the most controversial book. Recently the author admitted that he should never have attempted to climb Mt Everest as he has suffered from Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder since the 1996 events. Jon was a client on the Adventure Consultants team.

2. The Climb by Anatoli Boukreev. After reading Into Thin Air, your next book should be The Climb. This version of the account attempts to address some of the issues and finger pointing that was instigated in Into Thin Air. Unfortunately, the author Anatoli Boukreev was killed in a avalanche a year and a half after the 1996 disaster. He was guiding for Mountain Madness on Everest in 1996.

3. High Exposure by David Brashears. David is a high altitude climber and filmmaker and was on Everest in 1996 guiding and working on an IMAX film on Everest. His team was on a slightly different timeline than other expeditions and ended up playing a major part in the rescue effort from the mid to lower levels of the mountain. David's account is worth reading as the events unfolded he made some astute observations.

4. Left for Dead by Beck Weathers. A client on the Adventure Consultants team, Beck attempted Everest and had some major medical complications, leaving him stranded for hours at 27,000 feet during that ill fated storm. This survivor's story is another must read.

5. Climbing High by Lene Gammelgard. Lene was a client on the Mountain Madness team. She was the first person to pen her account of the events but I read this book last in my order. She has one of the best level-headed accounts of the tragedy as other accounts may have been skewed by different levels of altitude sickness.

6. Within Reach-My Everest Story by Mark Pfetzer and Jack Galvin. Mark Pfetzer was a 16 year old in 1996 and was at Camp 4 when the storm hit. His teenage account from Camp 4, the aftermath, and his own plans having to be abandoned is another good read.

7. Dead Lucky by Lincoln Hall. Ten years after the 1996 disaster, Australian climber Lincoln Hall attemped Everest from the North (Tibetan) side and suffered a epic survival story of his own. News of his death spread all over the world but that was based on an assumption; the underestimation of the will to live. Lincoln's tale of survival is almost unfathomable. A book that is hard to put down.

8. No Shortcuts to the Top by Ed Veisturs. This is Ed's account of his journey to summit all 14 of the 8000m+ peaks in the world without supplemental oxygen. He was on the Everest IMAX expedition in 1996 and has summited Everest 7 times. I really enjoyed reading about how this mountaineer makes smart decisions at altitude.

9. Touching My Father's Soul by Jamling Tenzing Norgay, Broughton Coburn, and Jon Krakauer. Jamling was a climber on  1996 IMAX expedition. He offers his story of the events tied in with reflecting on his father Tenzing's journey with Sir Edmund Hillary in the first ascent of Everest in 1953. A very cool book from the Sherpa's perspective from that timeframe.

10. Dark Summit by Nick Heil. 2006 was a deadly year (11 deaths, 1 less than 1996) on Everest and this book attempts to explain the deadly circus that is Everest and why commercial expeditions can be risky business.  The question: Why do climbers climb Everest? is attempted to be answered in this book.

Many of these selections I haven't laid eyes on in over a decade but some part of the story has stayed with me over the years and that's why I feel the list above is a worthy one. 

Unfortunately the two worst years in Everest history have occured in 2014 (16 deaths) and 2015 (18 deaths) and I'm sure there will be some interesting literature published surrounding those horrific natural disasters in the coming years.  

I follow coverage of the spring expeditions every year via Alan Arnette's blog that is a comprehensive overview of the expedition teams on the mountain each spring as well as insight into mountaineer's routines and Everest culture. Excellent blog from an experienced mountaineer.

So the big question is: Will I go see Everest in the theatre?! YES! Of course I will! It will be another interesting version of the accounts from 1996. I hope the acting is good and the scenery is even better. 

Stay tuned for an upcoming blog on my Top 10 Mountaineering books from other mountains. Happy reading!