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WESTERN UPLANDS BACKPACKING TRAIL

16/8/2020

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The Western Uplands Backpacking Trail
When the COVID-19 pandemic hit in Spring 2020, it drastically changed my summer travel plans so several Plan B’s started to develop. After travelling all across Canada in recent years to backpack some classic and off-the-beaten track trails, I decided I should check out the backpacking trail closest to where I live in my own province: The Western Uplands Backpacking Trail in Algonquin Provincial Park, Ontario. 

The Western Uplands trail consists of 3 loops that correspond to a short (~32km), medium (~54km) and long distances (~80km). The longest route (or 3rd loop) is over 80km long and is the one we chose to do this trip. When booking the campsites online, the system will only allow to book campsites within a certain distance away. If you are an experienced backpacker like myself, you may opt to call the park reservation agent and have them book campsites even further apart. We chose to do the loop in a clockwise rotation but you can choose to do it in either direction. From my experience it doesn’t matter which direction you travel. When we called to book many of the sites were taken so our choices were slim. If you must book Maggie Lake West like we did, it added an extra 4km to our total distance, which was 85km total!

Day 1 Wed August 12th : Trailhead to Maggie Lake West (14km, 1800ft ascent, 5 hours)


After a 3 hour drive to the Western Uplands trailhead, we were itching to get moving. We darted out of the car and across the bridge at 11AM, and chose the left trail at the first junction, sending us in a clockwise direction around the loop. The trail between the trailhead and Maggie is generally wide, well-travelled, and has some nice rolling hills. We found this part of the trail was the busiest that we encountered the entire trip and we started the trip on a Wednesday! One of the most surprising things was the disproportionately high number of all-female backpacking duos and groups.  I was so amazed, and also insanely happy to see this number of women out in the backcountry. Awesome!

We arrive at Maggie Lake and began our lengthy 2km detour to the west side of the lake to find our first campsite. The 2km (+2km back) detour may have been worth it as the campsite was awesome and the water was this awesome green colour that didn't come across well in any of the photos. The consistent breeze made the 31 degree humidex weather feel more tolerable and a dip in the lake felt amazing. We were able to dry out all our damp gear, eat a hearty meal and head to the tent at sunset.
Day 2 Thursday August 13th: Maggie Lake West to Islet Lake (30km, 3000ft ascent, 9 hrs)

Wake up time was 6AM as we knew this would be a long day distance-wise. Adding up the kilometres on the backpacking routes map we figured it would be a monster 27km day. I had only done a maximum of 23 km backpacking in the past so I was nervous and wanted to leave enough time to get to Islet Lake. Our average moving time including breaks the day before was 3.2km/hr so we figured it would take 9 hours to get there. 10 years ago I was backpacking with a 90L pack that weighed over 40lbs. In 2015 and 2017 I did backpacking trips with a 75L pack with pack weights in the 30lb range. On this trip (albeit shorter) I did this trip with a 55L pack with 27lbs. Lighter packs enable you to go further and get less tired in a day...well at least that was the theory that I was going to test out!

We were on the trail at 7:20AM and had to re-trace our steps back to the 2km to the main trail. We passed by many campsites with hikers still nestled in their tents. We handrailed Maggie Lake for some time before breaking away and heading north. This section of trail is fairly easy and before you know it you're at the turnoff to the first loop. We continued passed this turn off and for the next 7.6km or so the trail moves up and down over some hills (some are steep) and down through soupy mud puddles. Although our trip had 4 days straight of sun, it was apparent that the trail had recently been exposed to rain as the mud puddles were quite saturated meaning one misstep and you could end up with a soaker! The most prominent feature in this section is 'Bean's Boulder', a massive erratic that is parked right beside the trail that we conveniently used as an excuse for a rest stop. Soon after we came across two women about to pass us who had just gotten lost near Clara Lake by taking the portage trail instead of the hiking trail and wound up bushwhacking there way back to the trail. They had a long day ahead of them and had just added 3km to to their day. Yikes!

We arrived at Clara Lake in time for lunch and ate at the campsite right on the trail. This site is convenient with benches and easy access to water in case you need to filter some more water for your bottles. We noticed that on this site was also somewhat of a garbage dump laid with a heavy propane gas cylinder and random wrappers. I don't mind packing out garbage like wrappers but I draw the line at heavy objects. I wish people would just abide by the leave no trace principles and pack out what they packed in.

Leaving Clara Lake we passed over a beautiful ridge before descending down to the junction with the third loop. At the 17km mark for the day, Pincher Lake would have been a great place to set up camp and call it a day. It looks like a nice lake! We continued on and passed two male hikers who gave us a heads up of a tough climb ahead of us. This climb was to the lookout beside Stammer Lake. The climb was probably the longest and steepest climb of the trip, but wasn't anywhere as near as a steep and long as a Adirondack Peak. At the top of the ridge, you reach what feels like the height of land and can see into the distance initially and then it slowy drops down as you move through it. What we welcomed at this 'summit' was a breeze that had been absent all day in the sweltering heat. Once the descent was complete the march along Weed Lake and into Islet eases off and becomes fairly flat - something we were grateful for at the end of the 30km day.  Yes the GPS indicated we had done 30km, not 27km as per the map. We stayed on the southern most campsite on Islet which was good except for some slightly angled tent platforms. It was around that time when I notice that the bottom tip of my hiking pole was missing and the carbon shaft had cracked. I must have got it stuck in some mud puddle somewhere. My Black Diamond Carbon Cork Poles owe me nothing - they are over 10 years old and have been with me through thousands of miles on all my day hikes and backpacking trips. I was able to finish this hike and order a new lower shaft from Black Diamond for $9.95 USD. A 9 hour effort today was deserving of a cold drink, but one that would have to wait for another day. Instead we hydrated with Nuun tablets in our water bottles. Swimming was great on this lake and the loons put on a show!
Day 3 Friday August 14th: Islet Lake to Redwing Lake (28km, 3000 ft ascent), 10hours

Anticipating another long day, we woke up before our alarm at 5:45AM and sprung into action. I had been dabbling with some new recipes for this trip and was eager to try them out. I enjoy dehydrating my own food and try recipes that hold me hunger-wise and don't lead me to stomach growls 2 hours into my hiking day. I am going to do a separate blog on this topic but so far the food experiment has been worthwhile. So after our breakfast and pack up, we hit the trail at 7:30AM. The trail along Islet and around Ishkaday lake is flat and easy, allowing us to easily kick our pace up to 4km/hr. We passed several nice campsites on Islet Lake which were all full. The northernmost campsite is right one the trail where we met a male hiker just about to start his day. The northernmost junction to Rain Lake seems to become a more popular starting point for some hikers. We met several parties who had started from there and were doing the second or third loop from that trailhead. The 10km walk in and out on a old railroad does not appeal to me, but it may be convenient for some hikers.

The next section of trail over to Brown Lake continued to be easy walking with a few fluctuations in elevation thrown in. Beautiful hardwood ridges continued to dominant the forest in this part. We arrived a Brown Lake and saw that the campsites were still occupied! We had already been on the trail for a couple hours! We made some small chit chat and then begun our way over to the next section that leads you to the junction with the old 3rd loop trail that is now closed. The older maps still have this northern trail on it but the newer ones (we have a 2020-2021 map) do not. So we hopped on the portage trail and headed south to join the 2nd loop. This portage trail was littered with moose sign and had probably the most sign we had seen all trip with several fresh tracks in the mud and moose scat everywhere. The creek that runs along this trail is very marshy like and is perfect moose habitat. Unfortunately we didn't see any moose but they were hiding somewhere nearby for sure!

Before we knew it we were at Ladyslipper Lake and we by passed it and climbed a short hill to pass Gervais Lake. We decided to stop for lunch at a vacant campsite on Gervais. The site was large and would great for a group of 9. One thing to note- Although group sizes can be up to 9, there was often enough room for 1, maybe 2 tent sites at most sites that I saw. As a canoe guide I am always in search of the better sites for groups and this one could work albeit the swimming didn't look good here. We ate our lunch (a great recipe!) and doctored some blisters that were forming on my husband's feet. After we passed West Otterpaw Lake, we crossed a pair of women who had spotted a Garter snake eating a large toad. The five of us stared intently at this work of nature for a while before concluding that the snake would never be able to fit the large toad in it's body despite trying it's darndest. After lunch it got really hot and humid. The sweat dripped off our chins and every pore of our body was exploding with salty liquid. The stretch from West Otterpaw to Rainbow Lake became more technical and including several elevation changes and creek crossings. Some sections were even Adirondack-like: rocky and rooting with focused foot placements. 

Arriving at Rainbow we were desperate for more water but the campsites were all on side trails. A common feature on the Western Uplands is a sign on the trail saying 'Side Trail' to a campsite that can be 100m +.  Not wanting to add extra distance to our hike, we decided to forego the water fill up and head to Susan Lake instead. I don't remember the 3.7km to Susan being hard, but with the heat and dwindling water resources it wasn't easy. Luckily we passed two young women singing on the trail practicing for some performances which lifted all our spirits. Arriving at Susan, we stopped at the first campsite and filtered some water. Only 2km away from our destination for the day we were had no choice but to stop. We were all out of water even though I had started with 2L in the morning. The campsite on Susan was disgusting - loads of garbage in the firepit along with a bug repellent canister and various bits of paracord hanging from trees. I was not impressed. After a fluid fill up we headed up to the lookout above Susan Lake. This lookout has a log bench at it and has one of the best views of the trip. We really enjoyed this although it took some climbing to get to and even more climbing after our photo shoot at it. With 2km to go, we picked up the pace and marched over to Redwing Lake, our home for the night. We checked out both campsites and decided to take the more northern one with it's two nice flat tent spots. The second site seemed to have have had a tree blown over onto it's second tent spot! 

Upon arrival at camp we were dehydrated, hot, sweaty and blistered (Glenn). A 10 hour effort today for 28km. We set up camp, swam, ate and went straight to bed. We started talking about how this trip would probably been better done in 4 nights and 5 days instead of 3 nights. When my husband had booked it he had used a 1997 map with distances totalling 72 km for the loop. He also didn't have much choice of campsite as the with COVID there wasn't as much else to do so the spots were hard to come by. Speaking of inaccuracies, the 2020 map said we should have walked 24.5km on Day 3 but the GPS said 28km. That is a big difference! 
Day 4 Saturday August 15th: Redwing Lake to Trailhead (14km, 1200 ft ascent, 3.5 hours)

Another early rising day we woke up to a chilly morning. Deb was already out of her tent and lowering the food hang. I hollered out "Is there snow out there?" and we all chuckled and wore a an extra layer getting out of the tent. The cool air was something we wanted to take advantage of so we were on the trail by 7:45AM.

Glenn's blisters had really grown in yesterday's heat and the blister bandages we brought did not stick to his feet.  Today I pulled out the roll of athletic tape and re-visited my taping skills from my athletic therapy days and taped up his heels. He was able to hike out the rest of the trip no problem which I was grateful for as he was contemplating wearing his crocs out! 

The section from Redwing Lake to the junction of the first loop seemed to go by quickly. Campsites were all full passing Lupus Lake, Thunder lake and Romona Lake. The difference in the trail in the first loop junction was incredible. The trail widened significantly and the rest of the way out was an easy march. We even saw a trail runner who was running the first loop! We were out just after 11AM, a fast and easy end to the trip. We high-fived each other, took a quick selfie and headed to the Mad Musher restaurant in Whitney.  Check out my video of the trip below!


Recommendations/Notes:
- Call to reserve sites with larger distance gaps as online booking limits distances
- If experienced and deciding to do the 3rd loop, booking 4 nights would be best
- Do not leave garbage behind on the sites, in firepits, or on the trail. Pack out everything you packing in.
- Booking in August or September would be better for avoiding bugs
- The trail is mainly in the woods, not many views
- Moose sign becomes more and more apparent in the 2nd and 3rd loops
- Trail is more overgrown in 3rd loop but still easy to follow
- Campsites can accommodate 1 tent for sure, some 2, and rarely 3.
- Larger lakes are more 'swimmable' as some smaller lakes are weedy and shallow
- If there has been recent rains, the muddy spots on the trail will be more soupy so gaitors would be recommended. 
-Even if all campsites are full the trail does not feel crowded and lakes don't seem busy
-Trail markers are Blue on the 1st loop, Yellow on the 2nd, and Red on the 3rd
-There is cell service at Maggie Lake (I use Bell Mobility)
-Buy your Backpacking Trail Map from Friends of Algonquin Park 
-Gear List for the Western Uplands
-Blog for food and recipes - coming soon!

Totals:
Distance: 85km
Ascent: 8855 ft
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ALGONQUIN PROVINCIAL PARK CANOE TRIP: SMOKE LAKE TO ROCK LAKE

21/8/2018

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Looking for a short canoe trip in Algonquin south of Highway 60? Look no further than a spectacular trip from Smoke Lake to Rock Lake that our group of 6 did over 4 days in August 2018.

Day 1: Smoke Lake Access Point to Big Porcupine Lake
Upon arriving at the Smoke Lake Parking area, you actually need to cross over the highway to the Canoe Lake Permit Office to collect your camping and car permits before your trip. Park one car at the Rock Lake parking lot by running a shuttle with your second vehicle. The shuttle will take 50-60 minutes depending on traffic, construction, and wildlife-gawking tourists that stop in the middle of the road.

After the shuttle is set and you load your boats along the docks, head out on  Smoke Lake to the southern terminus. We paddled Smoke lake on a day without wind, and it took the better part of 1.5 hours to complete. We portaged the short uphill 240 meters into Ragged Lake. I would suggest here that if you have a long drive (over 4 hrs) to get to the park stay here for the night. Ragged has a plethora of campsites and they all look to be descent ones.

Continuing through Ragged we paddled into the swampy South Bay and to our next challenge: a heart-thumping uphill 590m portage into Big Porcupine Lake. Once this one has been completed head out of the bay into the breeze of the main part of the lake. Once we arrived we immediately looked for a campsite but this being August, the lake was almost completely full. Normally the extra paddle around looking for sites isn't such a big deal but with thunder and lightning approaching we were on a time crunch. We finally found our site at the last possible spot on the lake and quickly set up tents and tarps to prepare for the imminent rainstorm that of course didn't hit us!

Total travel time: 4 hours
Big Porcupine Lake
Extended portaging into Phipps Lake
Big Porcupine campsite
​Day 2: Big Porcupine Lake to Kirkwood Lake

Booking later than I normally do for this trip my only option for night 2 was Kirkwood Lake. This would make today's journey a short 2 hour jaunt. Adult-only groups that want to push the pace could easily combine our Day 2 and Day 3 itineraries. As we were travelling with children and wanted a more relaxed pace we decided to try our Kirkwood.

To get there we had to portage an easy 200m from Big Porcupine to Bonnechere Lake. Bonnechere is home to a few charming campsites that would be great spots to camp on at some point. Paddling to the north end of Bonnechere, we took the right fork and found the 175m portage to Phipps Lake. What we found on the Phipps side of the portage is a creek that was too low to paddle. A portage extension through the grasses and wetland doubled the length of this portage until we could load and continue on. 

Phipps didn't look that inviting for camping and so we hopped over the 60 m portage to Kirkwood and found our campsite for the night on the island in the middle of the lake. What we didn't know is that this campsite had a name: Magic Island! We spent a beautiful afternoon there swimming a lap around the island, catching frogs and napping in hammocks. The magic ended however with a hard rainstorm over night that lasted a few hours. Luckily we all stayed dry but the rain sure tested out our gear.
Kids trying out the bow
Frog catching on Magic Island
​Day 3: Kirkwood Lake to Lake Louisa

The rain ended around 9:30AM and we set off in the boats around 10AM. The plan for the day was to tackle 3 portages and end up into the gorgeous Lake Louisa and score a good site for the night. Unfortunately the plan didn't quite unwind as we first thought.

The first portage of the day begins at the end of Kirkwood and carries on for an easy 715m, ending in Lawrence Lake. I was the first one to carry through here with a canoe on my head limiting my vision. I saw the lake and put down my canoe. What we couldn't see on the two maps we brought is this portage trail fork at the end: one trail leading to Pardee Lake and one leading to Lawrence. I had taken the wrong trail.

After paddling Pardee and realizing that we were not where we should be, we backtracked and did a 10m (more like 25m) hop over portage back into Lawrence Lake. We lost about 30mins with this mistake. One of maps was large-scale and the other small-scale and neither noted that there is a split trail.

Back on track on the boomerang shaped lake of Lawrence we quickly arrived at the 415m portage into Rod and Gun Lake. This portage in August of 2018 had a large tree down near the Lawrence Lake side on a hill. At the time it was difficult to get over the tree (the only option) with a canoe on (take my word for it) so make sure you have another set of helping hands nearby before attempting. Continuing uphill again, you reach the small lake and scoot across it to complete the last portage, the 515m to Lake Louisa. This 515m portage had two tree obstacles to overcome as of August 2018. 

Lake Louisa is one of Algonquin's gems. It is home to a number of excellent campspots and is a favourite lake of trout fishermen. This year we found an island site to call home for the night. With the breeze we dried out our wet gear and spent the afternoon swimming and playing bocce ball. Total travel time for the day was 3.5 hours.
The longest portage of the trip: 2895m between Louisa and Rock
Over and under trees on the portage between Rod&Gun and Lake Louisa
Baking brownies
Day 4: Lake Louisa to Rock Lake Access Point

The morning of Day 4 arrived early as we had a deadline today back in civilization. We packed up and were on the water by 8:30AM. We paddled the length of  Louisa in about an hour and then tacked the 2895m portage into Rock. This portage trends downhill in direction we are doing it in and has easy footing and many areas that one could take a break. 

Depending on your number of packs and boats will determine the number of trips you make through the portage. We had to double back on this portage and it took a total of 1 hour and 30 mins. The final home stretch from the portage to the Rock Lake access took about an hour to paddle. Total time for the day 3.5 hours.
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ALGONQUIN PROVINCIAL PARK: WELCOME LAKE LOOP

13/8/2017

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Welcome Lake, Algonquin Park
The Welcome Lake loop in Ontario's Algonquin Provincial Park is a fantastic 40km flatwater canoe tripping loop. Reservations are recommended for this backcountry loop as campsites are numbered on many of the lakes. The trip is better done slowly in 4-5 days but could be done in 2-3 days if you want to push the pace. This loops involves a significant amount of portaging: 7.8km of the 40km loop is portaging. If you double back on portages like we had to on this trip, the distance jumps to a 55km loop! Loops also have advantages: no car shuttles!

The Rock Lake Access point is the starting point for this trip. It is located 8km south of Highway 60 around the 40km mark of the park (near the visitor's centre). Here, register at the park office along with the crowds of car campers. Our group included 4 adults and 2 children ages 6 and 8. We took 5 days and 4 nights to complete the loop and paddled it from July 28-Aug 2, 2017.

Day 1: Rock Lake Access to Penn Lake (10km or 3 hours)
After obtaining your park permits, drive down to the parking lot and load your boat in the small creek. We began our trip here around 1PM after driving to the park in the morning. Bear left on this creek to the main Rock Lake and enjoy the views for which the lake is named. Follow the right hand side of the lake into a small narrow at the south end and portage the 375m around a dam to Penn Lake. When entering Penn Lake you can paddle through a small narrowing of rocks between the islands (will only fit one canoe through at a time) or go left around the islands. We paddled over half way down this lake and settled into our campsite for the night. Penn Lake offers several beach and rocky shored campsites along it's narrow shape. 

Day 2: Penn Lake to Welcome Lake (6-11km, or 4 hours)
Leaving Penn Lake we entered into a small creek before reaching our first portage of the day of 295m. Entrance to this creek is on the left of this wetland. The portage was an unexpected surprise for us as it included a couple sets of waterfalls and small rapids. Side trails from the portage take you to the waterfalls and other scenic viewpoints. Check them out! This short portage goes uphill and is quite bushy so be prepared to get your heartrate up as there isn't too many places to stop and rest.
Jumping back into the boats, continue through a creek paddling through some weak beaver dams and before you know it you are at the 2170m portage. This portage, although daunting in distance features some rolling hills and wide and open. Two-way traffic can pass with ease. The ending of the portage brings you to the beautiful sand beaches of Welcome Lake. This circular lake is not large or deep, but is home to many amazing beach camping spots and sandy swimming shorelines! An Algonquin gem for sure.
Take advantage of tailwinds
Day 3: Welcome Lake to Lake Louisa (11km - 15km or 5.5 hours)
​Exiting Welcome Lake we passed through a creek that connected us with Harry Lake. A short paddle through Harry re-assured us that we made that right decision to stay on Welcome Lake the night before. There was only one campsite on Harry that looked decent for a buggy July stay. We continued through a second creek that connects to Rence Lake that included a large beaver dam obstacle astutely built across an old bridge foundation. After hauling over the dam and paddling a few minutes across Rence Lake, you paddle into a creek with a perfect canoe parking spot for unloading your boat at the 320m portage! This Rence lake beaver dam was not present when I did this loop in Spring 2023.
Training the 8 year old for portaging
Another boardwalk!
A short paddle through Frank and Florence Lakes will bring you to the long 1725m portage to Lake Louisa. This longer length portage has to be the easiest long portage in the park. This portage is very flat, very wide, and includes another short section on a dirt road. I don't think I have ever carried a canoe longer! At the dirt road, turn right, then a couple hundred meters down the road turn left again to re-gain the trail. A steeep downhill end of the portage leads you to the gorgeous Lake Louisa and was the icing on the cake. We stayed on one of the islands in this lake and enjoyed awesome swimming off rocky shores, successful lake trout fishing, and an amazing campsite!
Day 4: Lake Louisa to Rock Lake (9km-15km or 4 hours)
The morning paddle down Lake Louisa was stunning. This lake is one of Algonquin's best kept secrets. Louisa has multiple amazing campsites, crystal clear lake waters, and picturesque landscapes. It took over an hour for us to paddle down the lake but we loved it all. What we didn't love is when it ended and the 2895m portage began. That said, what we found out was this this portage trends downhill or  is flat. Again, a long but easy portage in this direction only. I did have to double back on this one and the hills going the opposite direction would make this portage unenjoyable to say the least. Finishing the almost 9km of portaging (after doubling back) is definitely sweat producing, hunger inducing and completely satisfying. We paddled out to ever busy Rock Lake full of all sorts of traffic: Motorboats, sailboats, canoes, kayaks, and SUPS.  We chose an island site for the night and soaked in another amazing summer night in the park. Alternatively, you could paddle out the final 3km back to the parking lot and end your journey here.
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Morning paddling on Lake Louisa
Day 5: Rock Lake to Rock Lake Access (3km or 45mins)
We ended our trip on the morning of Day 5 and were in the parking lot by 10AM. 

After paddling in the park for more than 25 years, this was my first trip south of Highway 60 and I was pleasantly surprised by the great campsites, easy but long portages, and beautiful lakes. I will planning more south of 60 trips in the near future!

Have any questions? Leave a comment below or contact me via my contact page.
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ALGONQUIN PARK: ACHRAY TO SQUIRREL RAPIDS

30/5/2015

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The Achray to Squirrel Rapids canoe trip is one of the best routes in Algonquin Park. Be warned that campsite reservations are recommended well in advance of your intended start date as this route is popular. This area of the park is jam packed with amazing natural features that everybody can enjoy. The trip is better if done slowly (4 days) but can also be done quickly (2 days) if time doesn't permit. The trip starts out with entering the park at the Sand Lake Gate after a drive on a gravel logging road. After registering at the gate, a few kilometers later you will come to the Squirrel Rapids take-out parking lot. Park your second vehicle here or hire a shuttle. Drive another 25km or so down to the Achray parking lot and launch on the shores of Grand lake.

Day 1: Grand/Stratton After a drive and shuttle set up, you will most likely not have much time to paddle into your site. Your choice is to camp on the large Grand lake or paddle over to a short 50m portage into Stratton. The choice is yours, and it may depend on your group size, and age. I have done this trip twice with kids 18 month to 4 years and for the sake of naps, we opted for Grand Lake. 

Day 2: Grand to Stratton Lake (2-3 hours)  Stratton lake offers some incredibly spacious campsites with rocky outcroppings and sandy beach sections. The lake itself is long and narrow, and is jam-packed with sites. Not all sites are picture perfect but if you get there early you will be granted some amazing camping. Swimming at Stratton Lake is not ideal as the lake is fairly shallow and muddy. Instead, a short paddle into a back bay and a 5minute hike will lead you to one of the gems of Algonquin Park: High Falls. High Falls is a natural waterslide perfect for sliding and swimming. It is a great spot to spend an afternoon or go for a quick evening dip. In addition to the slide itself, there is a circular whirlpool area that people can sit it and soak. 
Day 3: Stratton to Opalescent Lake (4 hours)   Heading out of Stratton, you hop over a small but rocky 75m portage to St Andrews Lake. Although I've never stayed at this lake, there are many beautiful sites with beaches making this lake attractive. Next up is 550m portage over to High Falls lake. This portage is fairly flat and straight forward until the steep hill descent at the end. High Falls lake is a shallow swampy lake with a few sites that are not recommended for camping with kids. Instead continue on to the next portage trail (make sure to take the trail to the right) 300m to a small swampy lake with many lily pads. Finally a 640m grunt portage that leads you into Opalescent lake. This lake is probably one of the most famous lakes in Algonquin Park for two campsites that boast couches and chairs around the fire pit made of rock. These two sites (one on the north shore and one on the south) are at the east end of the lake. If you score the one on the north in August, you will also be treated to hundreds of wild blueberries! Opalescent lake is a great lake for swimming and is clear and clean. As of 2013, there was a large windstorm that hit the park in this area blowing over many trees. The wind damage can be seen on this lake as trees have been uprooted.
Day 4: Opalescent to Squirrel Rapids (6 hours) Heading out of Opalescent take a rocky boulder hopping 750m portage over to Brigham Lake (close to an alternate access point) to a short, flat, 100m hop portage with a short paddle to 440m portage. This portage is downhill, and invites you to stop and look at a substantial waterfall halfway through. In 2013 many trees were blown over covering the portage trail but have been cut so that the trail is accessible. Be careful on the descent down to the water at the end of this portage as the trail narrows and drops off quickly on the right. Docking your boat at the end of this portage may require you to tie your boat up depending on the water levels as there is a current that will take your boat away if you're not careful.

The next paddling section of the trip is awe-inspiring. The Barron Canyon walls are simply outstanding scenery and will amaze any paddler. With light current you can float down the canyon without paddling and take many photos along the way. Look up to your left and you may see a hiker at a lookout point, and check out the cliffs both from the base and from across the river. Simply breathtaking.

Exiting the canyon, you will see many campsites on both shores and travel through a wildlife filled marsh before arriving at the final portage of the trip. We have stopped for lunch twice at the beginning of this 420m portage and had excellent luck fishing at this spot.  The last portage is straight forward and a short 15 minute paddle and you are at the Squirrel Rapids take-out. The take-out has a picnic table, gravel beach area and outhouse that is great for kids to hang-out/nap while waiting for the shuttle.

Alternative Routes for 1 or 2 night trips: If time was an issue and you were only travelling as adults there are two options that you could do in this area. First, you could paddle into Stratton Day 1 and visit High Falls, and on Day 2 exit near Brigham Lake or camp on the Barron River, exiting at Squirrel Rapids. A second option might be to put in at Brigham Lake, paddle through the canyon and camp, and take out at Squirrel Rapids. Finally if you couldn't set up a shuttle, you could put in at Squirrel Rapids, paddle up into the canyon, and backtrack out or paddle and camp at Stratton Lake and backtrack out.

A great trip for families!
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ALGONQUIN PARK: CANOE LAKE CLASSIC LOOP

17/3/2015

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Algonquin Provincial Park is located in central Ontario, Canada. It is a world renowned canoe tripping destination with many options for car camping and wilderness canoe tripping. I have been canoe tripping in this park now for 25 years, and it always holds a special place in my heart. The park is over 7000 square kilometers in size and has numerous options for short and long distance canoe routes. Reservations are recommended in advance and can be made here.

The Canoe Lake-Big Trout-Canoe Lake loop I will describe is one that I've completed over a dozen times. It is a classic route in the park and it is my number one choice for guiding my outdoor education classes. It can take a leisurely 5 days, or as short as 2.5 days. With my large groups I do the route in 3.5 days, and 3 nights as described below. The route has a great mix of small creeks, big lakes, and progressively hard portages.

The route starts at the Canoe Lake access point along highway 60. Highway 60 is the main highway that runs through the middle of the park. Cell service is accessible along the highway but a short 1 hour paddle off the highway and the cell service dies. Be prepared for backcountry camping beyond this point and make sure you have the adequate skills (canoeing, portaging, water purification, navigation, bear safety, wilderness first aid, etc) and knowledge before entering the wilderness area. Be sure to pick up your permits from the park office, rent any equipment items from the Portage store or Algonquin Outfitters, and use the flush toilet for the last time. Campsites in the backcountry have a limit of 9 people and have only a fire pit and a small pit toilet as facilities. 

Day 1-Canoe Lake to Burnt Island Lake (half day): Heading north along Canoe Lake, enjoy the old cottages and summer camps on the shores and islands. Stop at the Tom Thompson memorial on your way into the narrows at the north end of the lake. Veer right to the Joe Lake portage trail and portage the flat 250m trail around the dam. There is an outhouse along this trail if you need it. Paddle under the bridge hugging the right hand shore of Joe Lake moving through a narrow and into Little Joe Lake. On your right, you will see the Arowhon Pines Lodge, the setting for the movie Indian Summer, and the last man-made building you will see for days. The next short 165m portage you encounter is easily skipped in high water. Paddle through the creek to start the longest portage of the day 435m. A short paddle across Baby Joe lake and through a short final portage of the day 200m (make sure you go right at the fork!), and you'll be on Burnt Island lake. Depending on the weather and time of year, there are many sheltered campsites and wide open campsites along this lake. Listen to the loons as dusk hits.

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Sunset on Burnt Isle
Day 2- Burnt Island Lake to Big Trout Lake (7hrs): A nice warm-up paddle in the morning to finish the remaining length of Burnt Island Lake, and head to the 790m portage that traverses to Otterslide Lake. Getting out onto Little Otterslide Lake is always a relief, mainly from the heinous bugs that always seem to be hungry throughout the last portage. Paddle through Little Otterslide through a small creek that offers great wildlife watching to Otterslide Lake. I often stop for lunch at a campsite close to the Otterslide Creek portages to fill up water bottles and to fuel up for the challenge ahead. Otterslide Creek is a series of 5 portages along a narrow watercourse varying from 105m in length to 750m in length. This is a great test of portaging efficiency. There are many interesting features through this creek including wildlife sightings, beaver dams, and boardwalks to portage on. Once through the creek, you will be feeling low energy but a short paddle out to Big Trout lake will welcome you with a breeze and a plethora of fresh water to purify for your water bottles. I have my groups paddle over to the islands to choose a fitting campsite for the evening. Big Trout Lake is a great lake for swimming! 
Day 3-Big Trout Lake to McIntosh Lake (5 hrs): The morning's route through the remainder of Big Trout, White Trout Lake and Grassy bay will take hours. If windy it could take all day. As you pass through White Trout you will see a Ranger cabin on the shores. Paddling through Grassy bay is one of the highlights of the trip. This is the best opportunity to see the wildlife on the trip and hopefully it will not disappoint. My record is 6 moose in one trip through! Navigating through the creek can sometimes be tricky so for the most part if you take the widest, most well used path it works. Upon finishing the creek at the 745m portage, take a well earned break for lunch and re-fueling. The next portage is one of the toughest on the trip as there are 2 heart-pounding hills to carry your gear up. Paddle a short creek and then finish off the day with a 510m portage into McIntosh Lake. Look down as you paddle away from this portage. The bottom is often viewable 15m above at the surface. I like to camp at the southern most campsites closest to Ink lake. If the wind was in your favour, this day is relatively short!
Day 4- McIntosh lake to Canoe Lake (6.5hrs): Hopefully by now your packs are beginning to feel light as food has been consumed from the previous days. This will be a good thing leading into this morning's challege: a 2320m portage from Ink Lake to Tom Thomson Lake. The portage begins with a flight of stairs-I am not kidding! Portage your gear up the stairs to large flat landing area at the top. From here pace yourself through the 2320m, taking stops at the rest spots along the way. The portage is not overly difficult in terms of terrain, but it is long and heavy gear and multiple trips will weigh on you-no punn intended. It takes about a half hour to walk through the portage without stopping so with big groups I create strategies and challenges to get the equipment through the most efficient way possible. This portage can be buggy, and there has been bear activity witnessed in the past. After a photo-op with the portage sign at the end, hop into the boats once again and paddle through Tom Thomson to Little Doe Lake. Stop for lunch at a campsite and paddle on through Fawn Lake, Tepee, and Joe Lakes. You will recognize the bridge you canoed under a couple of days ago that will lead you back to the first portage of the trip. Backtrack through the portage and Canoe Lake and you have completed the loop. Celebrate with a treat from the restaurant or store at the access point!  
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McIntosh Lake
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    Canadian gal hooked on pursuing outdoor adventures, testing outdoor gear, and a passion for outdoor education.

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